Almost finished installing my CV1800, couple more questions

R

rdykens

New member
As title states, I am almost ready to start making sawdust. I have a few questions for those with more knowledge than I.

I am in Canada, and sourcing thin wall PVC pipe is all but impossible so I opted to go with 26 gauge steel spiral duct. Is there any downside with this material over the smooth wall PVC? For those of you that have used steel ducting, how did you make the transition from the intake and exhaust? I vent outside so I will have the pipe hooked up to the exhaust as well, but the diameter does not match up on either the intake or exhaust.

I am looking to buy bags and a bag retention thingy for my 55 gallon steel drum. When I go to place the bag in the drum, should all of the bag stay inside the drum, or can it be over the rim of the drum? would this reduce the integrity of the seal?

In regards to the final adjustments and leveling the cyclone, what data point do you choose to level? the hanger plate? the cyclone body? Is there any last touch tidbits you could impart before I flick the switch?

Thanks again for all your insight.

Edit: I found this product for the bags https://www.amazon.ca/Husky-Drum-Lin.../dp/B003BI2D9E in the picture of it, that kinda shows what I mean about the bag going over the lip of the drum. I'm not sure about the thickness of these bags though. It says they are only a 1 mil thickness. Probably too weak to lift out a bag full of sawdust.
 
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Rdykens,

I am probably not of much help on the inlet transition. I can say that SDR-35 PVC fits nicely inside the CV1800 inlet. My recollection is 6” metal pipe is quite a sloppy inside the inlet fit. About the only idea I have is to apply however many layers of flat and wide felt weather stripping to the outside of the metal pipe, held in place with metal foil tape until the metal pipe fits snuggly in the inlet. The some foil tape wrapped around the outside of the inlet where the metal pipe enters the inlet could seal things up. A ferckle rubber pipe fitting could also be used to create the seal. If you can find a large enough rubber compression ferrule, that might work better than the layer of felt weather stripping, though I suspect a rubber ferrule this size would be difficult to find.

The outlet transition could be made up as a box from MDF, screwed to the CV1800 outlet and sealed with silicone.

I agree that 1 mil drum liner bags would like tear during use, especially when inserting or removing a bag retainer. A 3 mil drum liner bag would be better, although more expensive. The 3 mil bags are tough enough that the bags can often be reused a time or two, which can save a little money.

https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...gclid=CMGh1r_Zg9QCFVi4wAodZzMIrw&gclsrc=aw.ds

It sounds as if you already know, but if not, it is important to use some type of system that will keep the bag in place while the cyclone is running. Otherwise the bag will get sucked into the impeller. I believe Oneida offers a bag retention device but I know nothing about this product other than it is a sheet of plastic that holds the bag in place under pressure from spring-back in the plastic.

It seems to me that leveling the wall brackets would ensure the motor and impeller are level, which in turn would allow the cyclone to hang plumb.
 
Hi Jsbrow thank you for stopping by and for your feedback. I will look into those suggestions you have made, thanks again for your time!
 
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