Working caulk
Working caulk
That's what I usually do, keep a small container of the particular solvent, either water or mineral spirits, plus a bunch of rags within reach. I also keep a collection of those fake credit cards places like AAA and AmEx send with their offers to use for tooling. If the standard, rounded corner isn't suitable, they're easy enough to cut to the desired bead.
But it still is a messy business and I find as uncoordinated as I am I more often than not must tape first. Also learned over the years to "push" the bead, and leave a half inch or so gap every so often for the inevitable excess.
The problem I had with the solvent Dap caulk was that I was trying to reseal the inner cylinder to the MDF top after having cut and removed CV's caulk, so I could paint the MDF. I applied a bead to both the MDF and cylinder prior to assy, to ensure coverage. But the stuff was so stiff that instead of merging together, it was like a taffy pull, and the whole process simply introduced a ton of bubbles. So, the combination of wrong stuff plus lack of skill produced less than desirable results.
I had better results with the transition assy, taping first, then almost filling the cavities with caulk, then inserting the mating pieces. But you'll also note that the curved plastic pieces, specifically the smaller, inside piece, didn't stick very well. This caulk wasn't a very good adhesive for PTEG, apparently.
Thought I did a decent job caulking the second version of the bin, if I do say so myself. Used the Polyseamseal and it was very easy to squirt then tool with the credit card. Corners first then pushing into the corners from the rest of the seam. Didn't use tape and was still pleased with the result. Almost looks like I knew what I was doing.
From what may be faulty memory, I think there were some decent plastic or fiber barrels that could be had in the 22" diameter range, and 35 gal or larger. I looked at the "usual suspects" for sites, entering both "plastic drum" and "fiber drum" into google.
McMaster might also have something suitable and I'd look there as well. A lot of times its the same stuff, so you're left with price comparisons, though McMaster doesn't give up brand names, models or UPC type info very often.
Its been said before but just for completeness, others have also suggested asking local car dealers / detailers / washes or other local industries what they might have for barrels or drums that they'd be willing to let you have for free or a nominal sum. I struck out here but you may have better luck. Just be aware of what came in it. If a really nasty chemical, keep looking. But if soap for the car wash or talc, flour, or anything benign, snatch it up.
Which means, if the business has to pay someone to haul off empty barrels, might be a pocket change generating sideline: take the barrels off their hands for free, rinse them out, sell them for, oh, $25 plus shipping to other CV installers! Probably dreaming again.
Regards,
DWD