Building a closet. What material?

C

cameronreddy

New member
New here, but I've had my ClearVue for 3 years or so. I'm moving it to a enclosed closet that I'm building, and I'd like to sound insulate this with the "best bang for the buck" material. Reading the recent threads leaves me a bit overwhelmed... and worse, the posts don't contain any information about cost.

Can anyone help me out?

Cameron Reddy
 
Cameron,
I too became a little overwhelmed at what to do. I began with a reading of close to 100db "a" scale right next to the cyclone and about 92 db ten feet away. Between seeing all kinds of STC claims being made all over the internet for different materials, reading where some people have not been totally satisified with thier end result after using these products, and probably the biggest thing... the cost of some of the "sound asbsorbing/blocking material " going for well over $100/sht. I decided to go with old fashioned mass.
I built my closet 6' x 8' using 2x6 wood studs. I used 3/4" MDF on the interior/R19 fiberglass insulation between the studs (tried to find rockwool locally but couldn't)/3/4" MDF on the outside followed by a 7/16" OSB panel laminated with FRP (which matches the rest of my shop) All joints of the sheeting were staggered and caulked with regular caulking. I suspended my cyclone from the 2x6 ceiling rafters with the vibration dampeners Bill Pentz shows on his web page from Grainger. I also ran an 8ft length of insulated flex duct between my exhaust and filters. I picked up an insulated steel door with a double pane glass window from a building salvage store that opens to the inside ( this cyclone is just too cool to hide in a dark closet) I now get a reading of 65 db "a" scale right next to the glass, and a little lower than that anywhere else along the wall. I had planned on covering the walls directly around the cyclone with acoustic ceiling tiles but I am happy enough with the end result. I hear more air rushing through the pipes than I do the cyclone running. I am sure there are better ways to go about it but I felt the most comfortable doing it this way.
Mike
 
Cyclone Closet

Cyclone Closet

Cameron,

We built our closet out of 2 x 4's and lined with r-13 and wrapped outside with osb and out results are about 65-68 db. We just lined the inside with window screen to let the insulation absorb the sound and prevent the insulation from falling. Sheetrock is not recommended for the inside as it will make it louder.;)

Matt
 
MNOAH said:
Cameron,
I too became a little overwhelmed at what to do. I began with a reading of close to 100db "a" scale right next to the cyclone and about 92 db ten feet away. Between seeing all kinds of STC claims being made all over the internet for different materials, reading where some people have not been totally satisified with thier end result after using these products, and probably the biggest thing... the cost of some of the "sound asbsorbing/blocking material " going for well over $100/sht. I decided to go with old fashioned mass.
I built my closet 6' x 8' using 2x6 wood studs. I used 3/4" MDF on the interior/R19 fiberglass insulation between the studs (tried to find rockwool locally but couldn't)/3/4" MDF on the outside followed by a 7/16" OSB panel laminated with FRP (which matches the rest of my shop) All joints of the sheeting were staggered and caulked with regular caulking. I suspended my cyclone from the 2x6 ceiling rafters with the vibration dampeners Bill Pentz shows on his web page from Grainger. I also ran an 8ft length of insulated flex duct between my exhaust and filters. I picked up an insulated steel door with a double pane glass window from a building salvage store that opens to the inside ( this cyclone is just too cool to hide in a dark closet) I now get a reading of 65 db "a" scale right next to the glass, and a little lower than that anywhere else along the wall. I had planned on covering the walls directly around the cyclone with acoustic ceiling tiles but I am happy enough with the end result. I hear more air rushing through the pipes than I do the cyclone running. I am sure there are better ways to go about it but I felt the most comfortable doing it this way.
Mike
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

Your solution sounds very good, but I just have a couple of questions.

1. Is the 8 feet of insulated flex duct between the cyclone exhaust and the filter, or at the exhaust end of the filters?

2. Have you completely enclosed the cyclone, filters, etc in the closet?

3. If you have totally enclosed the cyclone in the closet, how do you prevent the motor from overheating ?

A picture would probably help if you wouldn'd mind sending me one, kikodoss@gmail.com

Thanks in advance for answering my questions,
Erick
 
Erick,
The insulated flex duct is installed between the fan housing exhaust and the top of the filter. I used a gasketed 8" metal hvac starter flange at each end. Kind of similar to RickG in WV in the photo gallery with the exception that my closet completely houses all the cyclones components, cyclone, filters, barrel, etc. as well as a 3hp 60 gal air compressor. There is plenty of air moving through the closet and it is whatever temperature is shop air is.
One thing I didn't mention in my previous post is that there is an air return from the inside of the closet to the rest of the shop. I can't remember the exact size I used off the top of my head ( 16 x 10 maybe) but I basically used a louvered hvac return air grill located on the opposite inside wall from the filters a few inches above floor level. On the outer wall of the closet is another air grill the same size but located about 40 some inches from the floor . The air leaving the closet goes in the grill located close to the floor, goes up through the caulked stud cavity and exits into the shop area. If I had to do it again I would have spaced these studs a little wider apart to have a larger air exit cavity as I do have enough pressure in the closet to finish closing the door but not enough to whistle or be excessively loud at the outside exit grill.
I don't have any pics at this point as I am hoping to get caught up on some other projects first and build a filter inlet transition to place the filters side by side versus stacked end on end to get rid of one of the bends in my flex duct as well as free up some floor space in the closet.
Hope this helps some.
Mike
 
MNOAH said:
Erick,
The insulated flex duct is installed between the fan housing exhaust and the top of the filter. I used a gasketed 8" metal hvac starter flange at each end. Kind of similar to RickG in WV in the photo gallery with the exception that my closet completely houses all the cyclones components, cyclone, filters, barrel, etc. as well as a 3hp 60 gal air compressor. There is plenty of air moving through the closet and it is whatever temperature is shop air is.
One thing I didn't mention in my previous post is that there is an air return from the inside of the closet to the rest of the shop. I can't remember the exact size I used off the top of my head ( 16 x 10 maybe) but I basically used a louvered hvac return air grill located on the opposite inside wall from the filters a few inches above floor level. On the outer wall of the closet is another air grill the same size but located about 40 some inches from the floor . The air leaving the closet goes in the grill located close to the floor, goes up through the caulked stud cavity and exits into the shop area. If I had to do it again I would have spaced these studs a little wider apart to have a larger air exit cavity as I do have enough pressure in the closet to finish closing the door but not enough to whistle or be excessively loud at the outside exit grill.
I don't have any pics at this point as I am hoping to get caught up on some other projects first and build a filter inlet transition to place the filters side by side versus stacked end on end to get rid of one of the bends in my flex duct as well as free up some floor space in the closet.
Hope this helps some.
Mike
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike. Your response helps out a lot. Now I have a better picture of your setup, and can better plan out my dust collector strategy.

Erick
 
Carpet pad for sound reduction

Carpet pad for sound reduction

I have found that carpet padding can be used quiet effectively in a wood cabinet to muffle the sound of a shop vac.

I have just completed a sound enclosure for my Rigid Shop vac and it twice as quiet as before and I have had no heat realated issues.

Carpet pad is very cheap, can be obtained almost anywhere and I have had no issues with putting several layers on top of each other.

I went to an apartment complex that was changing carpet and they gave me about 50 yards for free. So far it works fine.
 
An ideal thing to use would be the material used on recording studio walls. Multiple angles to reflect/absorb the sound waves. I don't have a clue where to get it or what it costs, but wonder if the foam rubber "egg crate" pieces sold for beds that have the multiple bumps and dips would work, have no clue what they are called either, or if they are even still available. Or go high tech and get an electronic sound canceling device and tune it to the cyclone sounds. It basically takes an electronic sample of the noise, and sends an exact opposite sound wave via speaker that in effect cancels the noise. Same principle that if you get your home stereo speakers wired out of phase, your bass response is almost nil. Again, no idea on price or if it is really a viable option.
I exhaust outside via a home made transition off the cyclone to an 8-6-6 metal wye going through 2 short pieces of 6" flex (about 5") then through two 6" louvered outlets like a clothes dryer would use to the outside. I was running it on Sunday, had to walk to the house for something (detached shop building) and left the cyclone on. WOW!!! :eek: It was a lot louder outside than I thought it would be! Glad I don't have that noise in the shop. Surprised the neighbors haven't complained!:rolleyes: But then, the closest one to me on that side of the shop is about 60 yards away...across the creek! :D Jim.
 
Haven't built mine yet, but here is what i'm going to do.
-A staggered wall using 2x6 plates and 2x4 studs. I will use "sill gasket" between the plates and my ceiling /floor.
- install continuous(because of the stagger) R19 insulation. If i can get the acoustical stuff, great, but normal insulation will do.
- Drywall both sides. I could go nuts and use 5/8" thick- it costs just a bit more, and that extra 1/4" will male an audible difference.
- Stick soundboard, or "Beaverboard" on the inside of the closet to prevent sound reflection.
- use a solid core door, amking sure to use either foam or 'chinking in between the edges of the jamb and the rough opening.
- weatherseal the gaps between the door and frame.
- My old Carpentry books tell me that this will give the a high STC (sound transmission coefficient) rating w/o using expensive material or time consuming construction methods. All the materials i've mentioned are available at local building supplies.
 
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