CV1800 and CV MAX Revised Installation Manual

cvcsupport

Administrator
We have recently updated our Installation Manual and made it available on our web page.

Please post any comments and feedback on these instructions as we are continually working to provide outstanding products and service to all of our customers.

Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • ClearVue Assembly Manual 2011 Online.pdf
    960 KB · Views: 3
Motor mounting plate

Motor mounting plate

I bought my DC used from a guy and it was assembled. He had the mounting plate assembled with the rabbet facing the motor. According to the instructions you have it on the side away from the motor. Will I have a problem here?
 
clayandnancy -

The T-Nuts would be facing the wrong direction and therefore will pull out of the plate causing the unit to come apart, it needs to be flipped over.
 
I understand what you are saying, but,the t-nuts on this one are on the opposite side of the motor and are counter sunk. Could this have been made wrong or possibly an older design as this unit is 6 years old. The only difference that I can see in this mounting will be that the motor and impeller will be approx. an 1/8th of an inch higher in the blower housing.
 
mounting plate

mounting plate

clayandnancy,
I recall a post and maybe the early instructions about the t-nuts being on the wrong side of the mounting plate. I'm quite sure the early instruction set showed the plate upside down. I've done a search but cannot now find that post. I think it was by Ed.
bababrown
 
bababrown Thanks for the reply. I did some searches and found a reply from Matt in a 2009 post Product Instructions Updates. In it he hinted that they changed the t-nuts to the rabbeted side some time in the past. I must have one of those, Thanks for your time
 
Revised Installation Manual; possible correction

Revised Installation Manual; possible correction

Since I am currently installing my CV1800, I have noticed one minor item so far:
1) page 15; #1: The bolts that came on my system are 7/16" and not 5/8" as stated.

I will post others if I encounter them.
 
Documentation Issues (so far)

Documentation Issues (so far)

Some of these are, perhaps, overly pedantic, especially with the photographs, but it only takes a moment to be precise and eliminate potential problems:

General Suggestions
All images should be uniquely numbered and labeled.
The PDF has numerous errors of a technical nature. For example, black text and black objects knock out, fonts are not embedded (could cause problems on some non-Windows systems), resolutions of the images is large less than 96 ppi, making it blurry when printed and not particularly clear even when viewed on screen. Also, when I try to print the document I get errors on Page 25 which keeps pages 25 & 26 from printing out.

Cover
I’d take a few minutes and fix the background noise in the logo, as well as sharpen the edges and increase the resolution. It’s your logo, your brand identification; you should want it to be as perfect as possible.

Page 3
It wouldn’t hurt to be more specific. If you don’t think it matters what screw types and dimensions, you should explicitly state that.

Change to read: 1 – 8’ long two-by-four lumber
What kind of bolts? Dimensions?
What kind of screws? Wood screws, drywall, MDF, etc? What dimensions?

Page 5
Illustration is insufficient resolution. Color and gray scale images should be 300dpi, line drawings should be at least 600dpi. This image is very blurry when printed, and people’s eyesight degenerates with age.

Page 7
Cyclone Hardware illustration is insufficient resolution. See notes for page 5. I can’t even read the printout of this illustration. It would appear to me, however, that the motor bolts are mislabeled. The pan head should read pan head screws.

I know what a motor key is. Perhaps all of your customers also know this. In case they don’t, you may wish to be a bit more specific.

Page 8
There are no directions to transform the bracket sides to triangles.

Item #2 uses two 2 ½” screws. This is not on the list on page 3.

Item #3 should specify that ten 1 ½” screws are to be used for each bracket side. Technically, the way it reads now, it only specifies ten screws total.

Item #4 ends with an extraneous left parenthesis.

Item # 4c notes that the entire weight of the system is being held by the screws, but, as noted in the comments on Page 3, you don’t specify the type of screw. My feeling (and you may certainly disagree) is that the average person will buy drywall screws, whereas wood screws for decking, for example, may be more appropriate.

Item #4d says to use the #12 x 2 ¼ screws, but doesn’t specify quantity.


The first image labeled “(4)” is of insufficient resolution to see how many screws are used to apply the sides to the bracket back.

The second image labeled “(4)” shows nine screws for that side.

Page 10
Item #5b refers to four motor bolts.

Illustrations are all labeled for Item #4, but they apply to Item #5.

Page 12
Item #1f “As you tighten, the impeller is drawn up towards the bolts.” I believe this belongs in the next step, as tightening a setscrew against the key should not draw up the impeller.

Question: how does one measure ft/lbs on screws tightened by Allen/Hex wrenches?

Items #3a and #3b refer to things that need to be done later, but are not referenced later in the document.
 
Scrap The Video: it contains many error, is out of date, and shows some procedures (installing the Taperlock, to where the Impeller rubs against the motor mounting bolts) which are dangerous.
 
I'm doing my installation now, and I can attest to the difficulty of seeing detail in the photos. I think they should be much larger and higher resolution.

- Yesterday, I had a hard time telling in exactly what order the nuts, washers, lock washers and rubber tubing goes on the threaded rods. I think I got it right by looking at other photos, but that one with the yellow box is the one referred to, and it needed to be much larger for me.

- When building the 90-degree transition, it says to drill four pilot holes and install four "transition screws". I read back through the document and found the hardware list (which is a bit buried at the bottom of a page, it should be on a page of its own), and I think I used the right ones. It would help if it said to install four "1-1/4 transition screws" - i.e. call out the dimensions of the hardware each time it is specified or better yet, assign a letter to each type of hardware and say install four "1-1/4 transition screws (G)" for example.

- When building the transition, the curved plastic pieces are longer than the slots. Does the "extra" go on the inlet or the outlet side of the transition? If following the instructions to the letter, it says to build it and caulk it before trying to fit it to the blower housing, but it would be nice to know before it's all caulked up and set.

- I'm building my own stand for the cyclone, but there's a lot of design work to it, and for someone not familiar with the cyclone there's a lot of research into diameters and clearances and some guess-work not having seen the cyclone up close. I think it would be a great option to have a "standard" stand with measurements and cut lists. It seems everyone is having to re-invent the same very basic thing. If mine works out, you're welcome to the design, drawings, and cut list.
 
Disappointing mounting

Disappointing mounting

I purchased the $45 mounting bracket and wish I hadn't. It is very cheap 1/8" thick aluminum and while it may support the cyclone, I do not want to trust this large of an investment to something so cheap. Spend a few extra bucks and make a unistrut mount with 1/4" steel shelf brackets.
Also, there is nothing in the manual about wall clearance. After spending hours coming up with an acceptable wall mount and hoisting the motor up I find that it ends up too close to the wall to mount the blower housing, so back to square one. And the aluminum brackets would have the same issue.

I also agree that the pictures in the manual are not high enough resolution to see the order of nuts and washers.
 
Back
Top