Cyclone Ramp
- Thread starter kirch76
- Start date
Jim O'Dell
Moderator
I get some dust settling in above the ramp, is that what you mean? It's dead space anyway, so I can't see that it hurts anything. Ed sent me a high res copy of the logo a year or so back. I'd like to print that out on a clear page and stick up there. 
Other wise, I might just do in on a full page Avery label. Jim.
Other wise, I might just do in on a full page Avery label. Jim.I had the same problem (see photo)
I found that you can seperate the blower from the cyclone and that the central tube will come with the blower.
I then stuck a selfadhesive P-profile (from tesa called tesaMoll) to the cylinder in such a way that when I closed the blower/cyclone I had to 'turn' the thin part of the P-profile between the ramp and the cylinder.
What you see on the photo is the round top part of the P-profile (very soft silicone rubber). The suction will pull the round part into any gaps.
End result on the next photo. No more dust in the top part.
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In Belgium you buy it in any good hardware store. The company that makes it is Tesa.
If you cannot find it I can ship you a box, it is not very expensive, about $10 for 6 m.
The full name is "tesaMoll Classic P profile" they have other profiles..
A UK link I found: http://astore.amazon.co.uk/tesa0a-21/detail/B000QB4ELO.
Erik
If you cannot find it I can ship you a box, it is not very expensive, about $10 for 6 m.
The full name is "tesaMoll Classic P profile" they have other profiles..
A UK link I found: http://astore.amazon.co.uk/tesa0a-21/detail/B000QB4ELO.
Erik
Danscyclone
New member
I found a double P section at a in Ks Lowes in with the door sweeps that I used on an unrelated p project. I don't remember if they had just a single P.
Strange dustpatern
Strange dustpatern
Just to show that the P profile makes a big difference I made a photo of my cyclone ramp and vortex tube.
The fine dust is sticking to the tube and leaving a strip super clean! Must be some turbulance running down the ramp and tube.
You can see the profile being pulled in.
Very strange....
Strange dustpatern
Just to show that the P profile makes a big difference I made a photo of my cyclone ramp and vortex tube.
The fine dust is sticking to the tube and leaving a strip super clean! Must be some turbulance running down the ramp and tube.
You can see the profile being pulled in.
Very strange....
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Mike Goetzke
New member
What is strange is that ghost like figure holding a camera inside of your cyclone
.OK - had to get that out first, but, yeah it's strange that clean strip. Did you use anything to clean/slick up the surface before applying the seal?
Mike
The ghost looks like me when it is very cold in the my shop..
Did I treat the surface: Yes with ethyl alcohol.( I had some left from my course of French Polish). But I am not such a fanatic that I would make such a perfect line all the way round. I only cleaned a wide section of the vortex tube - not the whole surface - where I was going to fix the P profile.
The point I wanted to make is that it is very important to get the ramp and the vortex tube airtight - just like the rest of the system. Every leak is translated into extra electricity = $$. (I pay about $ 0.20 per kW here in Belgium)
Did I treat the surface: Yes with ethyl alcohol.( I had some left from my course of French Polish). But I am not such a fanatic that I would make such a perfect line all the way round. I only cleaned a wide section of the vortex tube - not the whole surface - where I was going to fix the P profile.
The point I wanted to make is that it is very important to get the ramp and the vortex tube airtight - just like the rest of the system. Every leak is translated into extra electricity = $$. (I pay about $ 0.20 per kW here in Belgium)
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Woodtweaker
New member
Just received my CV 1800, and I'm wondering if it's possible that the fan is pulling dust above the ramp because the vortex tube is not sealed to the top mounting plate? I'll take another look at it tomorrow, in case I missed something. Checked it out today, 8/30/2011, and see that it is sealed. Will install P profile to seal ramp to vortex tube.
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Update 18 months later
Update 18 months later
An update some 18 months later:
The first image is nearly the same as the one posted 18 months ago. You can see the build-up of fine dust along the inside of the cyclone and the clear strip where there must be a vortex (I think?). This proves the necessity of an airtight seal between the up-shaft and the ramp.
Just to prove my point the second picture shows a part of the seal that came loose over time. You can see how the fine dust accumulates on the side where 'leak' appeared. You can also clearly see the shape of the sealing P-profile.
Just my 2 cents
Erik
Update 18 months later
An update some 18 months later:
The first image is nearly the same as the one posted 18 months ago. You can see the build-up of fine dust along the inside of the cyclone and the clear strip where there must be a vortex (I think?). This proves the necessity of an airtight seal between the up-shaft and the ramp.
Just to prove my point the second picture shows a part of the seal that came loose over time. You can see how the fine dust accumulates on the side where 'leak' appeared. You can also clearly see the shape of the sealing P-profile.
Just my 2 cents
Erik
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Woodtweaker
New member
Thanks for the update. I did install the profile as you did, but I'm not sure it is necessary any longer. My Clearvue came with a hole bored in the area above the ramp. I'm not positive, but I think it's to break the suction there, and eliminate the dust getting sucked above the ramp.
Erik,
I'm hoping you will see this. I am slowly installing my cyclone I bought a few years ago. I can definitely see a gap between the center tube and the ramp. I would like to make this modification. but I just cannot picture how / where to stick the p-profile on the center tube?
So the p-profile is stuck to the center tube, underneath the ramp and the 'tail' of the P goes between the ramp and the center tube.? How did you know were the ramp would be after you take it apart?
Also, your other modification to eliminate the gap under the impeller. Do you fell that was definitely worth doing?
Thanks,
Rob
I'm hoping you will see this. I am slowly installing my cyclone I bought a few years ago. I can definitely see a gap between the center tube and the ramp. I would like to make this modification. but I just cannot picture how / where to stick the p-profile on the center tube?
So the p-profile is stuck to the center tube, underneath the ramp and the 'tail' of the P goes between the ramp and the center tube.? How did you know were the ramp would be after you take it apart?
Also, your other modification to eliminate the gap under the impeller. Do you fell that was definitely worth doing?
Thanks,
Rob
Positioning the P-profile
Positioning the P-profile
Rob
What I did was to take the cyclone from the motor mount and unscrewed the central tube from the rest of the cyclone. I used the dustmarkings to draw a line with a feltpen where the P-profile should to be fixed on the inner tube. Put it back together to see if the line was correct, corrected it where I was off.
The thin part of the P-profile goes to the bottom the P part on top. With the vacuum the P part can be sucked into the gap to make it fit better
After fixing the P-profile I then turned the inner tube slowly back into the cyclone so the P-profile would fit . It took me a few tries but eventually I got it right. (still needs a few corrections)
The change to the blower was worth it for me because of two things
1- Different and less noise (-10 dB for certain frequencies)
2- Less power consumption, about 10% (I suppose better efficiency)
I still have the intention to improve the blower but I will need a few instruments for that. - Coming real soon now
Hope this helps
Erik
Positioning the P-profile
Rob
What I did was to take the cyclone from the motor mount and unscrewed the central tube from the rest of the cyclone. I used the dustmarkings to draw a line with a feltpen where the P-profile should to be fixed on the inner tube. Put it back together to see if the line was correct, corrected it where I was off.
The thin part of the P-profile goes to the bottom the P part on top. With the vacuum the P part can be sucked into the gap to make it fit better
After fixing the P-profile I then turned the inner tube slowly back into the cyclone so the P-profile would fit . It took me a few tries but eventually I got it right. (still needs a few corrections)
The change to the blower was worth it for me because of two things
1- Different and less noise (-10 dB for certain frequencies)
2- Less power consumption, about 10% (I suppose better efficiency)
I still have the intention to improve the blower but I will need a few instruments for that. - Coming real soon now
Hope this helps
Erik
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Erik,
Great. Thanks for clarifying. I guess I had the p on the wrong side. I think I can draw a line inside the tube were the ramp is. I don't have the luxury of dust yet
I will definitely add the p-profile. I'll have to think about the other modification, that's a little more involved.
Thanks again.
Rob
Great. Thanks for clarifying. I guess I had the p on the wrong side. I think I can draw a line inside the tube were the ramp is. I don't have the luxury of dust yet
I will definitely add the p-profile. I'll have to think about the other modification, that's a little more involved.
Thanks again.
Rob
Hello,
I was working on this modification. I kept making adjustments but never could get D-profile (couldn't find P) up against the ramp completely. Then I realized the ramp has separated from the outside cyclone wall.
I'm not sure if this was weak originally, if laying on its side for a few years in storage has but enough stress on it to separate, or if it happened while I was messing with it now (I didn't think I put that much stress on it).
How is the ramp attached to the side? caulk? epoxy?
The top and bottom are secure it is just the middle. There is a gap between the ramp and the side. I cannot pull them together without a gap somewhere.
Do you think a good bead of caulk will do or do I need something stronger?
I assume the precise placement of the ramp isn't critical, as long as there is a nice flow from top to bottom.?
Thanks for the help
I was working on this modification. I kept making adjustments but never could get D-profile (couldn't find P) up against the ramp completely. Then I realized the ramp has separated from the outside cyclone wall.
I'm not sure if this was weak originally, if laying on its side for a few years in storage has but enough stress on it to separate, or if it happened while I was messing with it now (I didn't think I put that much stress on it).
How is the ramp attached to the side? caulk? epoxy?
The top and bottom are secure it is just the middle. There is a gap between the ramp and the side. I cannot pull them together without a gap somewhere.
Do you think a good bead of caulk will do or do I need something stronger?
I assume the precise placement of the ramp isn't critical, as long as there is a nice flow from top to bottom.?
Thanks for the help
RMason
My ramp is stuck pretty good to the outside wall, as received from the factory.
You can caulk it if you can get to the right place but in principle nothing much sticks to the PETG wall material. Only special PETG glue will really work.
The placement is not very crucial but it should not move and be airtight otherwise it will reduce the efficiency of the cyclone.
Hope this helps
Erik
My ramp is stuck pretty good to the outside wall, as received from the factory.
You can caulk it if you can get to the right place but in principle nothing much sticks to the PETG wall material. Only special PETG glue will really work.
The placement is not very crucial but it should not move and be airtight otherwise it will reduce the efficiency of the cyclone.
Hope this helps
Erik
Ryan Brucks
New member
I am glad I found this thread BEFORE I set up my cyclone that should be coming next week. At first I was confused about how you know what shape spiral to attach the weatherstripping in.... but now I see that you used the previous dust leak marks
So this does present a more interesting challange: How does one get that line with a new cyclone? Would it be easy to dry fit the tube into the cyclone on the ground and then just trace the ramp by hand to get the line?
So this does present a more interesting challange: How does one get that line with a new cyclone? Would it be easy to dry fit the tube into the cyclone on the ground and then just trace the ramp by hand to get the line?
Ryan Brucks
New member
FYI weldon will bond PTEG as well as other types of arylic/lexan, but it will only bond them to the same material (ie, pteg to pteg, but not pteg to lexan). Weldon #16 would be used for any application where there's a small gap to fill, but even then it's a pain since it shrinks a ton. Weldon 3 or 4 would be used for a perfect seam without gaps...
Not that anybody would want to do it, since it would be permemant.. but if you had to repair the outside of the cyclone my bet would be on weldon.
Not that anybody would want to do it, since it would be permemant.. but if you had to repair the outside of the cyclone my bet would be on weldon.
Ryan
What you can do is use a felt pen (alcohol) and try to trace the ramp when the cyclone+ blower is put together without the engine mounting. You can put your hand down the top and try to follow the ramp with the pen on the inside of the central tube.
It will take a few efforts and you can use alcohol to remove the line if it is not correct. Once you have the P-tube fixed you can remove the line with the same alcohol (aftershave+cotton wool if do not have anything else)
Hope this helps...
Erik
What you can do is use a felt pen (alcohol) and try to trace the ramp when the cyclone+ blower is put together without the engine mounting. You can put your hand down the top and try to follow the ramp with the pen on the inside of the central tube.
It will take a few efforts and you can use alcohol to remove the line if it is not correct. Once you have the P-tube fixed you can remove the line with the same alcohol (aftershave+cotton wool if do not have anything else)
Hope this helps...
Erik