electrical enclosure
- Thread starter ScottN
- Start date
I picked up a 12"x12" enclosure making sure I had plenty of room for McRabbets new genie sensor board.
The price of wire is really getting crazy!!! I ran 10-3 wire to the motor.I could have gotten by with 10-2 but I have 3 phase equipment and plan on getting more so it made sense for me to get the roll of 10-3. I ran 8-3 from my electrical panel supply to my enclosure which is 70' away.
This is where I am with my install.
The price of wire is really getting crazy!!! I ran 10-3 wire to the motor.I could have gotten by with 10-2 but I have 3 phase equipment and plan on getting more so it made sense for me to get the roll of 10-3. I ran 8-3 from my electrical panel supply to my enclosure which is 70' away.
This is where I am with my install.
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Scott -- great looking pics of your setup -- you are going to have a very nice shop when it is done. Looks like you'll have plenty of room below your cyclone for the bin sensor that we've been discussing -- Are you planning to use galvanized duct from the bottom of the cone to a short section of flex above your lid and then connect the flex to a collar sealed onto the top of the lid? You need some flex to remove the lid and service the bin. The pair of LED sensor units can be positioned to look through the flex.
Added Info:
Scott -- in looking at your electrical box,
there is plenty of room inside for all of the connections between the bin sensor control box and your H230B relay coil. Are you planning to use a remote control unit that you can actuate the cyclone system from any of your tools in the shop? If not and you're looking for one, I can make some recommendations. Just PM or email me.
Added Info:
Scott -- in looking at your electrical box,
there is plenty of room inside for all of the connections between the bin sensor control box and your H230B relay coil. Are you planning to use a remote control unit that you can actuate the cyclone system from any of your tools in the shop? If not and you're looking for one, I can make some recommendations. Just PM or email me.
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I bought a 12" piece of clear 6" pipe to go from my lid for the sensors and then flex pipe for the remaining 12".
Instead of a remote I was thinking of installing 4-way switches. So I would end up with 3 switches around my shop. If I had a remote, I think I would spend half the time looking for it.
Instead of a remote I was thinking of installing 4-way switches. So I would end up with 3 switches around my shop. If I had a remote, I think I would spend half the time looking for it.
The clear pipe will work well for the sensors, but it may require some blocks of wood off the wall to mount the sensors on (I normally mount them on the bin lid).
I would still recommend a remote control despite your suggestion that you "would spend half the time looking for it". I have a good radio frequency remote control that comes with two transmitters that each have a nice chain and clasp that I hook on my shop apron (I leave the other unit on the fence of my Grizzly table saw).
The receiver can mount on the wall next to your control box (it needs a 120V outlet) and some simple wiring can be added from the receptacle in the bottom of the receiver into your control box. I have used mine for over ten (yep, that is 10) years and I have changed the 9V batteries in the transmitters once in that time -- I have my receiver mounted on a post in my crawl space so it can control my DC over a short 120 line into the DC control box. The radio signal has never failed me (I actually tested it from upstairs and it worked through two floors) in all of that time. Less than $50 (they are also available from Klingspor's Woodworking Shop in Hickory, NC.
I would still recommend a remote control despite your suggestion that you "would spend half the time looking for it". I have a good radio frequency remote control that comes with two transmitters that each have a nice chain and clasp that I hook on my shop apron (I leave the other unit on the fence of my Grizzly table saw).
The receiver can mount on the wall next to your control box (it needs a 120V outlet) and some simple wiring can be added from the receptacle in the bottom of the receiver into your control box. I have used mine for over ten (yep, that is 10) years and I have changed the 9V batteries in the transmitters once in that time -- I have my receiver mounted on a post in my crawl space so it can control my DC over a short 120 line into the DC control box. The radio signal has never failed me (I actually tested it from upstairs and it worked through two floors) in all of that time. Less than $50 (they are also available from Klingspor's Woodworking Shop in Hickory, NC.
Using exisitng remote control
Using exisitng remote control
Quick installation question....I have an old Grizzley dust collector running on 220V 20A circuit. Can switch that out to 30A and should be good to go. However, I have a PSI Long Ranger 220V Remote control plugged into wall and then the dust collector plugged into it. I love that system. Would it work with the ClearVue and if so would I wire a 220V pgitail to motor and then plug into my remote control box or how would you do that?
Using exisitng remote control
Quick installation question....I have an old Grizzley dust collector running on 220V 20A circuit. Can switch that out to 30A and should be good to go. However, I have a PSI Long Ranger 220V Remote control plugged into wall and then the dust collector plugged into it. I love that system. Would it work with the ClearVue and if so would I wire a 220V pgitail to motor and then plug into my remote control box or how would you do that?
You will have to find the specs for the LR remote-the CV uses a 5 HP motor and that may be to much for it. You can always use a contactor, basically the LR remote would just activate the contactor so the LR unit would not carry any real load.
The Long Ranger 220V is not rated for the amperage required by the 5HP Leeson motor on a ClearVue Cyclone. And it isn't really suitable for switching the coil on an H230B contactor because that coil is 120V. Your best bet using the Long Ranger is to replace the H230B with an H230C contactor, which has a 240 VAC coil. They are lots less expensive than replacing the Long Ranger -- here is a source for under $10 plus shipping.
PDXLuthier
New member
Reviving this old thread ...
Rob, can you elaborate on your last comment? I'm getting ready to order a CV. I already own a 220v Long Ranger remote for my current setup and want to understand if I can reuse it and if so how to upgrade it. Or would I be better off just selling the LR and getting new hardware?
I'm unclear as to where the contactor fits in; is that an internal component of the LR that I would replace?
Any diagrams or photos would be great!
Rob, can you elaborate on your last comment? I'm getting ready to order a CV. I already own a 220v Long Ranger remote for my current setup and want to understand if I can reuse it and if so how to upgrade it. Or would I be better off just selling the LR and getting new hardware?
I'm unclear as to where the contactor fits in; is that an internal component of the LR that I would replace?
Any diagrams or photos would be great!
I'm happy to respond, PDX. The link I provided is still accurate for the H230C contactor, which is used to switch the 240 VAC power leads to the blower motor. A contactor is a high amperage capacity relay that has an electromagnetic coil (different models have different voltage coils ranging from 24 volts to 240 volts) which is used to switch the 240 volt power feed from the mail circuit breaker panel to the motor of the cyclone. In essence, the contactor is a switch to control the power to the cyclone that is controlled by an electromagnet powered by a second source of power. In the case of your Long Ranger, the 220 volt output from it is connected to a 220 volt-rate coil so when you press the wireless "On" button, 220 power activates that coil and closes the relay contacts of the contactor, allowing the 240 VAC L1 and L2 power to flow to the 5 HP Leeson motor. The contactor is located in an electrical junction box that the user provides (or his electrician installs) adjacent to the cyclone.
I've included a picture of the ClearVue Cyclone Electrical Box which includes a similar contactor (labeled with L1 and L2 on top) that is used to switch the power to a cyclone. The CV Electrical Box uses a wireless 120 VAC power source comparable to your Long Ranger; here it is seen attached to the left side of the grey junction box. Power coming out of that remote outlet is fed to the coil of the contactor (a 120 volt coil model) seen in the center of the Box. It uses a 120 VAC coil which is used by most users versus the 220 Volt coil of the H230C that is needed in your case for compatibility with your Long Ranger. Does that help?
I've included a picture of the ClearVue Cyclone Electrical Box which includes a similar contactor (labeled with L1 and L2 on top) that is used to switch the power to a cyclone. The CV Electrical Box uses a wireless 120 VAC power source comparable to your Long Ranger; here it is seen attached to the left side of the grey junction box. Power coming out of that remote outlet is fed to the coil of the contactor (a 120 volt coil model) seen in the center of the Box. It uses a 120 VAC coil which is used by most users versus the 220 Volt coil of the H230C that is needed in your case for compatibility with your Long Ranger. Does that help?
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PDXLuthier
New member
Thanks Rob - this does help a lot. I've wired my share of 110 and 220 household circuits, but I'm not too familiar with relays, etc.
So if I'm understanding this correctly, if I go with the LR I would not need the "heavy duty relay" (aka contactor) that comes in the CV kit, as it's a H230B designed for 110V switching. Instead I use the H230C.
Not shown in the photo is the 220V supply, which would appear to connect to the line side of the contactor/relay. One difference with using the LR would be that I need a 220V supply for the remote sensor (instead of the 120V shown). Would there be any issues using the same supply for both the sensor and the motor load?
Also, I'm wondering if going with the LR set up now would lead to any difficulties or extra expense if I decide to add a bin sensor later on?
-Nate
So if I'm understanding this correctly, if I go with the LR I would not need the "heavy duty relay" (aka contactor) that comes in the CV kit, as it's a H230B designed for 110V switching. Instead I use the H230C.
Not shown in the photo is the 220V supply, which would appear to connect to the line side of the contactor/relay. One difference with using the LR would be that I need a 220V supply for the remote sensor (instead of the 120V shown). Would there be any issues using the same supply for both the sensor and the motor load?
Also, I'm wondering if going with the LR set up now would lead to any difficulties or extra expense if I decide to add a bin sensor later on?
-Nate
At the risk of being accused of switching gears, here is my recommendation. The 220 volt Long Ranger is rated for up to 2.5 HP max, so it cannot be used directly as a power source for the 5 HP CV1800 (which is why a relay is needed to switch the power coming from your panel to supply the cyclone on a 30 amp circuit). So what are your options? I recommend not using your Long Ranger at all, but that you buy a less expensive wireless remote like the one used with the ClearVue Cyclones Electrical Box in the photo I attached earlier. A near identical unit is this wireless remote control outlet made by Thomas & Betts found on Amazon.com. It plugs into a 120 Volt Outlet and provides a wireless on/off switch extension of that outlet. For my personal CV1800 installation, I purchased an inexpensive 16 gauge grounded extension cord, cut off the female plug end and attached the two stripped conductors (white and black) to the coil on the 120 Volt contactor provided with a CV1800 (an H230B contactor or equiv.; the green conductor is a ground and should be attached to any other ground in the junction box containing the H230B contactor). The wireless remote outlet can be plugged into any shop outlet, although I'd recommend a circuit without any motors due to their possible impact during startup on electronic circuits found in the remote control outlet. Your best option is an outlet on the shop lighting circuit that is switched off when you leave the shop so the remote outlet electronics get a rest when they are not needed (plug saves on your electric bill, protects against any false DC startup and extends the life of the device).
That configuration provides an inexpensive and reliable wireless control for your CV1800. You can clip the wireless transmitter to your shop apron or leave it on your table saw fence for easy control of your cyclone.
As an aside -- and not self-serving I assure you -- is that the bin sensor system I market has a dust collector control that uses an internal relay which links to the coil on the CV1800 contactor (tying into one of the remote cord conductors I described above) and will operate perfectly with a 120 volt wireless outlet system described above. The unit has a 12 Volt DC power supply that is also sensitive to voltage drops and needs to be on a non-motor circuit. Bottom line: It works well, is inexpensive and is reliable.
That configuration provides an inexpensive and reliable wireless control for your CV1800. You can clip the wireless transmitter to your shop apron or leave it on your table saw fence for easy control of your cyclone.
As an aside -- and not self-serving I assure you -- is that the bin sensor system I market has a dust collector control that uses an internal relay which links to the coil on the CV1800 contactor (tying into one of the remote cord conductors I described above) and will operate perfectly with a 120 volt wireless outlet system described above. The unit has a 12 Volt DC power supply that is also sensitive to voltage drops and needs to be on a non-motor circuit. Bottom line: It works well, is inexpensive and is reliable.
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PDXLuthier
New member
So it sounds like adding a bin sensor to the LR set up (which would have two hot lines connected to the 220V contactor) might be problematic or at least require some changes to your bin sensor design.
Given that, it does seem like my best option is to go with the 120V remote and relay. I don't see any good reason to reinvent the wheel here.
Thanks again for your advice Rob!
-Nate
Given that, it does seem like my best option is to go with the 120V remote and relay. I don't see any good reason to reinvent the wheel here.
Thanks again for your advice Rob!
-Nate
PDXLuthier
New member
I have a 1500 watt oil-filled space heater on the same circuit as the lights (I'm forever forgetting to turn off the heater in my shop and having it on the lighting circuit solves that problem). Do you think the on-off cycling of the heater would cause any issues with the electronics in the remote and bin sensor systems?
The 12 Volt regulated power supply that I provide with the Bin Sensor will operate on 95 - 240 VAC at 47 - 63 Hz and draws only 0.2 A as it puts out 12 V DC up to 700 MA. The circuit you cite has your lights and a 1500 watt space heater and as such, you may be very close to the current capacity for the circuit breaker. You didn't say how much load is attributable to your lights, but if you have 2-3 fluorescent fixtures, you may be near the total capacity of a 15 amp breaker (the heater draws 12.5-13 amps and a typical 4 x 32 watt fixture draws about 1 amp) and six fixtures gets you to about 18-19 amps of total load. Since the 12.5 amp heater load comes on at once, you may be creating a voltage drop on the supply, which will impact the power supply if the voltage drops below the lower rated level of 95 VAC (that is what has occured in 2 known cases of this power supply being on a circuit with a 1-2 HP motor). Such a voltage drop may dim the lights briefly and won't impact the heater, but I would not recommend putting this power supply on that circuit. It may work fine, but without some actual data, I would suggest a conservative position. If the heater is on a separate breaker from the lights, then I think you would be fine.
Hope this answers your concern.
Hope this answers your concern.