Fasco H230B relay - wiring diagram/instructions?
- Thread starter JJohnston
- Start date
JJ,
The Fasco H230B is a 120V, 2-pole, 30 Amp contactor that has a number of lugs for the 240 Volt L1 and L2 leads and lugs on the sides next to the coil on each side for the 120V leads. When the coil is energized by 120 power, it closes the contacts for the 240 Volt power to pass from one side of the contactor to the other.
I used the remote supplied by ClearVue and cut an extension cord off at the plug end and exposed the black and white leads from the cord. As you look at the picture below, the 120V black lead connects to one of the lugs just below the product label and the white lead to one of the lugs on the opposite side (you should buy 12-14 ga. solderless, crimp on "female" connector to make the proper connection). There are four lugs on each of the connections at the right and left side that connect to the 230 V L1 and L2 lines -- connect the L1 and L2 from your incoming #10 insulated leads from your power panel to one each of the lugs (use a #10 female solderless crimp-on connector). Use connectors from the other side to the L1 and L2 leads to the Leeson motor. The ground wire is passed by the contactor and connected to the motor ground wire. When the relay is tripped to ON, the coil is actuated and the contactor contacts are closed, starting and running the Cyclone motor.
Here is a picture of the enclosure with my H230B contactor from the top -- the black and white (right and left with blue insulators) leads are the 120 V coil leads and the black and white with yellow insulators at top and bottom are the L1 and L2 240V leads. Ground wire bypasses the contactor. The relay at the right is part of my bin full sensing system.
Hope this helps.
The Fasco H230B is a 120V, 2-pole, 30 Amp contactor that has a number of lugs for the 240 Volt L1 and L2 leads and lugs on the sides next to the coil on each side for the 120V leads. When the coil is energized by 120 power, it closes the contacts for the 240 Volt power to pass from one side of the contactor to the other.
I used the remote supplied by ClearVue and cut an extension cord off at the plug end and exposed the black and white leads from the cord. As you look at the picture below, the 120V black lead connects to one of the lugs just below the product label and the white lead to one of the lugs on the opposite side (you should buy 12-14 ga. solderless, crimp on "female" connector to make the proper connection). There are four lugs on each of the connections at the right and left side that connect to the 230 V L1 and L2 lines -- connect the L1 and L2 from your incoming #10 insulated leads from your power panel to one each of the lugs (use a #10 female solderless crimp-on connector). Use connectors from the other side to the L1 and L2 leads to the Leeson motor. The ground wire is passed by the contactor and connected to the motor ground wire. When the relay is tripped to ON, the coil is actuated and the contactor contacts are closed, starting and running the Cyclone motor.
Here is a picture of the enclosure with my H230B contactor from the top -- the black and white (right and left with blue insulators) leads are the 120 V coil leads and the black and white with yellow insulators at top and bottom are the L1 and L2 240V leads. Ground wire bypasses the contactor. The relay at the right is part of my bin full sensing system.
Hope this helps.
Last edited:
Perfect - that picture tells me everything I need to know.
One more question: How do you mount the components to the box without driving screws completely through the back, i.e., how do you get the box to sit flush on the wall? It looks like maybe you put machine screws in through the back. Did you countersink the heads? How do you tighten the nuts without the screws turning? Mount everything before you mount the box? How would you remove/replace anything? I guess that was more than one question.
One more question: How do you mount the components to the box without driving screws completely through the back, i.e., how do you get the box to sit flush on the wall? It looks like maybe you put machine screws in through the back. Did you countersink the heads? How do you tighten the nuts without the screws turning? Mount everything before you mount the box? How would you remove/replace anything? I guess that was more than one question.
JJ,
I'm using a Carlon 6" x 6" x 4" deep weatherproof box. I mounted the components with pan head machine screws with a dab of silicone sealant to seal the hole drilled from the outside (not critical because this is used indoors). I tightened everything with a nutdriver on the inside and screwdriver bit on the outside. The added 1/16" height of the machine screws doesn't hinder screws through the four mounting lugs on the perimeter of the box. You could use flathead screws, but it isn't real necessary. If I need to remove anything, I'd just remove the box first.
By the way, if you are interested in having a sensor to detect when the bin is full, check out this thread.
I'm using a Carlon 6" x 6" x 4" deep weatherproof box. I mounted the components with pan head machine screws with a dab of silicone sealant to seal the hole drilled from the outside (not critical because this is used indoors). I tightened everything with a nutdriver on the inside and screwdriver bit on the outside. The added 1/16" height of the machine screws doesn't hinder screws through the four mounting lugs on the perimeter of the box. You could use flathead screws, but it isn't real necessary. If I need to remove anything, I'd just remove the box first.
By the way, if you are interested in having a sensor to detect when the bin is full, check out this thread.
Thanks. I've got that thread, and the one on the NC woodwork forum bookmarked already. That's a good idea, and I don't anticipate any problems following the wiring diagram.
Couldn't you also use the screw terminals to connect the 240V wires on the relay? Isn't that what those are?
Couldn't you also use the screw terminals to connect the 240V wires on the relay? Isn't that what those are?
Bin sensor and contact questions
Bin sensor and contact questions
Have a few questions with wiring.
Anyway, getting ready to wire my CV. On the FASCO contact, I take it the line and load side is either or? I say this because it is not marked.
Next question: Can you tell me exactly what parts I need for the bin full sensor? I can't decipher from the original thread. I'm not sure what DPDT is. Also where can I get them?
My last question is can I wire a 110v plug off of the Allen Bradley contact in order to wire my remote? I figured I would just plug it in as it will be separated by a wall from the CV.
Thanks
Bin sensor and contact questions
Have a few questions with wiring.
Anyway, getting ready to wire my CV. On the FASCO contact, I take it the line and load side is either or? I say this because it is not marked.
Next question: Can you tell me exactly what parts I need for the bin full sensor? I can't decipher from the original thread. I'm not sure what DPDT is. Also where can I get them?
My last question is can I wire a 110v plug off of the Allen Bradley contact in order to wire my remote? I figured I would just plug it in as it will be separated by a wall from the CV.
Thanks
Was hoping Rob would jump in to answer your question, Nick.
I can't answer it all as I'm not enough of a sparky. But I do know a DPDT stands for "double pole, double throw". It is a type of switch, one can get them at Radio Shack and the like, various styles. Essentially, if I have it correct and if I don't I'm sure someone will correct me, these things basically switch two leads.
Most light switches, for instance, are single pole, making or breaking the hot wire. A double pole on a 110 circuit would do both the white and black wire.
As for the relay, when 110 power is supplied to the coil, the contacts connect both 220 pairs. So really doesn't matter which side is line and which is load as when the coil is energized, connection is made straight through for both of the 220 leads. Trust you've viewed the photo Rob imbedded a few posts below.
Sorry I can't help you much on the bin full sensor. From what may be faulty memory, essentially what Rob was doing was installing a lamp and a photocell, so when the bin is full, the photocell isn't being energized by the lamp. The photocell Rob specified was one that "turned off" when light was broken, essentially the opposite of your standard photocell night light.
In other posts, Rob noted he is, or at least was, quite active in another woodworking forum, and if you can't raise him here, might be worth a try for you to attempt contact there. Or, and maybe easier, this forum allows one to email another member, without divulging that member's email. The original senders, as I recall, is transmitted to the recipient so that person can answer you. His screen name is McRabbet.
Regards,
DWD
Regards,
DWD
I can't answer it all as I'm not enough of a sparky. But I do know a DPDT stands for "double pole, double throw". It is a type of switch, one can get them at Radio Shack and the like, various styles. Essentially, if I have it correct and if I don't I'm sure someone will correct me, these things basically switch two leads.
Most light switches, for instance, are single pole, making or breaking the hot wire. A double pole on a 110 circuit would do both the white and black wire.
As for the relay, when 110 power is supplied to the coil, the contacts connect both 220 pairs. So really doesn't matter which side is line and which is load as when the coil is energized, connection is made straight through for both of the 220 leads. Trust you've viewed the photo Rob imbedded a few posts below.
Sorry I can't help you much on the bin full sensor. From what may be faulty memory, essentially what Rob was doing was installing a lamp and a photocell, so when the bin is full, the photocell isn't being energized by the lamp. The photocell Rob specified was one that "turned off" when light was broken, essentially the opposite of your standard photocell night light.
In other posts, Rob noted he is, or at least was, quite active in another woodworking forum, and if you can't raise him here, might be worth a try for you to attempt contact there. Or, and maybe easier, this forum allows one to email another member, without divulging that member's email. The original senders, as I recall, is transmitted to the recipient so that person can answer you. His screen name is McRabbet.
Regards,
DWD
Regards,
DWD
Bin Sensor Parts
Bin Sensor Parts
Sorry I haven't been on to answer this earlier, but I've been a bit busy of late. Here are some answers to your questions.
Let me answer your last question first -- Your remote switch is the source of power for the Allen Bradley relay -- I plugged my remote into a wall outlet and then used an extension cord with the female end cut off as a power cord into the Carlon enclosure to feed 110V power to pins 8 and 1 of the A-B relay.
The Fasco H230B can be wired in either direction -- the 110 V coil leads are on either side and the 230 V lugs are at each end.
A Double Pole, Double Throw (DPDT) switch is one that can switch two separate inputs from one set of contacts to a different set. The Allen-Bradley 700-HA32A1 relay is a coil-actuated (i.e., relay) DPDT switch -- when the coil is not energized, the switch between pins 8 to 5 and 1 to 4 are closed (also called "normally closed") and when the coil is energized, the connections are switched to 8 to 6 and 1 to 3. Pins 7 and 2 are the coil leads. You can find the A-B 700-HA32A1 relay at most any electrical supply and you'll need an 8-pin octal base (A-B 700-HN125) for it to plug into. Here is an Internet source for the base and for the relay, new or used.
The Summit CP688 Photocell is available at Lowe's (sku 70551) for about $13; the enclosure is a Carlon 6" x 6" x 4" waterproof box and the candelabra base and bulbs can also be found at Lowe's too. My "Bin Full" Indicator is a 110V Red Bulb in the shop.
Here is the schematic for the circuit.
Let me add a footnote. In my circuit, I switch the White (neutral) lead of the 110V power, which is not necessary (remove White from Pin 1 and connect it directly to the H230B coil); you only really need to switch the Black (power) lead. The circuit could be easily modified to use the 1-3 switch as a switch to actuate a 12V Strobe light where the Bin Full Indicator is located. Remove the black lead from Pin 6. Use a 12 volt "wall wart" transformer (see the strobe link for source) and feed one side of the 12V to pin 1 and connect a lead between a 12V Strobe and Pin 3. The other transformer lead connects directly to the Strobe light.
Hope this helps...
Bin Sensor Parts
Hi Nick,
Sorry I haven't been on to answer this earlier, but I've been a bit busy of late. Here are some answers to your questions.
Let me answer your last question first -- Your remote switch is the source of power for the Allen Bradley relay -- I plugged my remote into a wall outlet and then used an extension cord with the female end cut off as a power cord into the Carlon enclosure to feed 110V power to pins 8 and 1 of the A-B relay.
The Fasco H230B can be wired in either direction -- the 110 V coil leads are on either side and the 230 V lugs are at each end.
A Double Pole, Double Throw (DPDT) switch is one that can switch two separate inputs from one set of contacts to a different set. The Allen-Bradley 700-HA32A1 relay is a coil-actuated (i.e., relay) DPDT switch -- when the coil is not energized, the switch between pins 8 to 5 and 1 to 4 are closed (also called "normally closed") and when the coil is energized, the connections are switched to 8 to 6 and 1 to 3. Pins 7 and 2 are the coil leads. You can find the A-B 700-HA32A1 relay at most any electrical supply and you'll need an 8-pin octal base (A-B 700-HN125) for it to plug into. Here is an Internet source for the base and for the relay, new or used.
The Summit CP688 Photocell is available at Lowe's (sku 70551) for about $13; the enclosure is a Carlon 6" x 6" x 4" waterproof box and the candelabra base and bulbs can also be found at Lowe's too. My "Bin Full" Indicator is a 110V Red Bulb in the shop.
Here is the schematic for the circuit.
Let me add a footnote. In my circuit, I switch the White (neutral) lead of the 110V power, which is not necessary (remove White from Pin 1 and connect it directly to the H230B coil); you only really need to switch the Black (power) lead. The circuit could be easily modified to use the 1-3 switch as a switch to actuate a 12V Strobe light where the Bin Full Indicator is located. Remove the black lead from Pin 6. Use a 12 volt "wall wart" transformer (see the strobe link for source) and feed one side of the 12V to pin 1 and connect a lead between a 12V Strobe and Pin 3. The other transformer lead connects directly to the Strobe light.
Hope this helps...
Thank you!
Thank you!
It does! I am going to gather the parts and print this out...I may have more questions later, but this should do.
Thanks,
(DWD thank you too!)
Nick
Thank you!
It does! I am going to gather the parts and print this out...I may have more questions later, but this should do.
Thanks,
(DWD thank you too!)
Nick
flyboy4060
New member
More info please
More info please
McRabbit,
Could you please expand on the installation of the Photoeye and Candelabra. How and where did you position them? Inside the waste receptacle, the base of the cyclone cone, etc?
Thanks
More info please
McRabbit,
Could you please expand on the installation of the Photoeye and Candelabra. How and where did you position them? Inside the waste receptacle, the base of the cyclone cone, etc?
Thanks
220 V Source?
220 V Source?
Planning to build my own dust collector with the Leeson motor and Clearvue impeller. I live in the Philippines where the power supply is 220V 60Hz.
I'm pretty handy in woodworking but green on electricals.
Will the Fasco relay work for me? Or do I need it at all?
220 V Source?
Planning to build my own dust collector with the Leeson motor and Clearvue impeller. I live in the Philippines where the power supply is 220V 60Hz.
I'm pretty handy in woodworking but green on electricals.
Will the Fasco relay work for me? Or do I need it at all?
jakovalltrad
New member
I just wanted to thank Mr. Mc Rabbet for making things so clear about how relays and contactors work!
Just to make sure ......
From what I understand, by applying the proper voltage to the coil (12v, 120v, 240v), it changes the DPDT relay from NC to NO. Then the voltage you want to use to power the motor/other device (120v, 240v), is transferred from the one side of the contactor to the other side - to power the motor itself.
(Hope I got that right!)
THANX
Just to make sure ......
From what I understand, by applying the proper voltage to the coil (12v, 120v, 240v), it changes the DPDT relay from NC to NO. Then the voltage you want to use to power the motor/other device (120v, 240v), is transferred from the one side of the contactor to the other side - to power the motor itself.
(Hope I got that right!)
THANX
I somehow missed this post from jakovalltrad about the Contactor connections and I think his post needs to be clarified. The Packard or Fasco H230B contactor is a power relay with a 120 volt coil. The 240 Volt hot leads are connected at L1 and L2 and the coil leads at the sides are connected to a 120 Volt switched source (usually a wireless remote switch). When power is supplied via the switch, the coil enables 240 Volt power to pass through to the motor on the cyclone. My bin sensor has a power relay which uses the aforementioned 120 volt power to the Contactor through a Normally Closed set of contacts that allows the cyclone to operate using the wireless remote. When the bin sensor goes into alarm status (i.e., the bin is filled), the bin sensor relay is actuacted to the Normally Open contacts and the cyclone shuts down.
For further information, please contact me via PM.
For further information, please contact me via PM.
jakovalltrad
New member
Yeah, I think I got my NO and NC backwards when I wrote that post - I was trying to make sure I understood how a power relay works - Your explanation was the only one I could find on the net that was clear as a bell - most of the explanations elsewhere were about as clear as mud! I'm going to use a power relay in a different application - a 120v coil and 240v water heater element - to be precise. Thanks for your explanation, and thanks for your response.