Ghost in the Machine?

C

CSimpson

New member
I got my CV1800 hooked up and all the duct work in yesterday. This morning I woke up to find the system running. I had all the blast gates closed last night and about 75% of the ducting caulked. When I went to shut it down I found that the can (Rubbermaid) had partially collapsed and torn loose from the tape at the bottom of the cyclone.
Has anyone else experienced this auto turning on behavior? I checked all my Christmas remotes and none of them seem to turn the system on.
I am going to have to install an additional switch to disable the system when I am not using it if I can't figure out what is going on.
 

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There have been a number of posts on this forum of the system turning on as if by magic. I know my ceiling fans occasionally turn on "by themselves". One good solution is to wire the power to the remote receiver from the shop lights so the system is enabled only if the shop lights are on. Some try changing the code. I simply wired my system with a control switch (no remote). I turn the system on when I start working and shut it off when I'm done. My particle counter shows that the system needs to be run to clean the air between woodworking operations. As to the dust bin I think you will have continuing problems with the Rubbermaid barrel collapsing. It probably is better to go with a metal can with a plywood or MDF top. Your starter ring is good for a plywood or MDF top but I would cut it down to 1 inch height and connect to the cyclone with a piece of 6 inch flex hose and two hose clamps. Good luck with your system and welcome aboard.
bababrown
 
Thanks for the feedback.
I had the rubber can already and it has wheels to ease the dumping. If it is an issue when there are ports open I will switch. What normally happens when all the ports are closed? How does the collector behave when starved for air, or does it find enough from somewhere?
Yes, I will replace the outlet feeding the remote receiver with one that has an outlet and a switch. Then I can have the system only active when I want it.
Regarding the flex to the can, I hate to buy 10 feet of 6" flex when I only need a foot. I have no other use for that 6" flex. I have 6" sewer pipe for all the runs, but transition to 4" at each tool since thatis what they all take. I considered that HVAC aluminum flex, but it is too thin and fragile. Does anyone have a source for short pieces of flex?
 
When all the ports are closed the CV-1800 develops maximum vacuum and will suck in a Rubbermaid bin. The steel cans hold up well. Interestingly, the motor pulls the least amount of current when all the gates are closed. Clear Vue used to supply a short section of flex hose for the bottom of the cyclone. I do not see that included in the list of supplied items now. Also, Wynn Environmental used to carry cut-offs so you might call them to see if they have any short pieces for sale. You also could ask forum members if any have some spare hose.
bababrown
 
A 6" piece of flex is included with all complete cyclone systems. If a longer piece of flex hose is needed for the base of the cyclone, please contact our office.

CVC Support
 
I have the same issue, presumably related to the remote relay that is sold with the kit.

I have noticed that the remote to unlock my wife's Volvo will turn the system on - but usually only if I am quite close. Even the range on the included remote is not that impressive.

But something else is triggering it because every time I don't unplug the relay, the system will invariably be turned on within an hour or so. Sometime longer - and definitely not caused by the car unlock remote. I have run outside after it happens to see if the neighbors have just arrived (or left) - and I've found no blame there.

Last night my wife woke me up at midnight to alert me... it hadn't turned itself on for the previous 3 or so hours it had been plugged in. I agree that wiring the system to the light switch is a good option, but I'd like to hear any other ideas that you all may have. I'd rather not have to do any more wiring.
 
I had a similar problem with another brand of remote control, but was able to change the DIP switches in both the transmitter and receiver to different settings and the problem went away. In my case, the culprit was my own garage door remote control. If the unit provided by ClearVue in their Electrical Box has DIP switcches to change the code, that's what I'd recommend. The other alternative is placing the remote control power on a switched circuit as has already been suggested by bababrown.
 
Thanks, McRabbet.

Indeed the receiver and remote do have switches inside. I just toggled them on each. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the tip.

Ben
 
Glad it's not just me. As you mention I have poor range with the remote as well. I have to be within 8 feet or so for it to work.
As far as the ghost goes, I bought one of these to replace the outlet that came with the unit. You can wire it so that the switch controls the outlet and the light glows when it is hot.
 
This happened to me yesterday, but it turned out to be my cordless drill that turned the cyclone on! I was up on a ladder at the time, screwing in some cable clamps to hold the power cord and the flex conduit to the wall after completing my wiring. I will have to mess with the dip switches I guess.

-John
 
This happened to me tonight - it was triggered by my Ford F-150 remote key fob! I'm glad it happened when I was getting home, so the dust collector didn't run all day, or weekend!
 
I have my own electrical box and have been lucky that it never picks up interference and turns itself on. Or at least this was the case at our old house in the country. I am just putting everything back together after a move to the city, so my fingers are crossed that it will be OK.

Some remotes have a choice between A, B, or C. Other remotes have a 4 position dip switch to allow up to 16 different channels.

I wired my control box with 2 electrical switches. One switch removes 120V from the remote control receiver, so the relay cannot operate. This could also be connected to the lights so the CV stays off when the lights are off. The other switch provides power directly to the relay to turn on the CV without a remote. I am not sure if the CV electrical box has the option to be wired this way.
 
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