I had a 30 amp, 240v circuit installed specifically for a dust collector. I had the electrician put both a switch and a receptacle in it. The receptacle is a NEMA 6-30R, like this. I don't know what the switch is, but I assume (since it was a licensed electrician) that it's OK. So, can the Leeson motor be wired to a 30 amp plug like this one and operated with a conventional wall switch?
Switched circuit and plug instead of 110v relay and direct wire?
- Thread starter JJohnston
- Start date
You could buy a 2-pole switch designed to handle a 30-Amp load, but my preference is to carry a small remote transmitter attached to my shop work apron to turn my DC on and off whenever I need it and where I happen to be in my shop at the time. My ClearVue CV1800 is being installed below the floor of my shop (I have a high and dry crawl space and have my ductwork networked under the shop space), so I wanted the ability to also sense when the bin on my collector was full since it is out of sight. Here is a link to a thread I started earlier this summer with a circuit plan for the remote linked to two relays -- a 30 Amp contactor relay that is a standard item from ClearVue (a Fasco H230B) and a smaller relay that is used to cut the remote's power to the coil of the contactor when a light beam across the mouth of the cyclone is blocked by chips. When that happens, the dust collector shuts down and won't restart until the bin is emptied. Cost is less than $75.
Wall switch
Wall switch
Hi,
Is the switch you are referring to 110 volts? if so then you can operate the coil of a relay with the 110 to switch the 220 for the motor and if you wanted to go a step further you could wire that switch to an outlet then plug in the remote to that then wire that to the 110 volt coil on the relay so that you turn the switch on to give power to the remote then use the remote transmitter to turn the cyclone on and off. The switch is there for safety so that when you leave you turn that off and the remote cannot activate for any reason as it won't have power. As another customer suggested the outlet for the remote could just be wired into your lights. Give us a call if this doesn't make sense.....I have a habit of confusing everyone.
Robert I had forgotten all about that design and if I study it more I might could figure that out in the meantime I'll just have to rely on my window!
Did you make the change to spdt relay as jon suggested?
Matt
Wall switch
Hi,
Is the switch you are referring to 110 volts? if so then you can operate the coil of a relay with the 110 to switch the 220 for the motor and if you wanted to go a step further you could wire that switch to an outlet then plug in the remote to that then wire that to the 110 volt coil on the relay so that you turn the switch on to give power to the remote then use the remote transmitter to turn the cyclone on and off. The switch is there for safety so that when you leave you turn that off and the remote cannot activate for any reason as it won't have power. As another customer suggested the outlet for the remote could just be wired into your lights. Give us a call if this doesn't make sense.....I have a habit of confusing everyone.
Robert I had forgotten all about that design and if I study it more I might could figure that out in the meantime I'll just have to rely on my window!
Did you make the change to spdt relay as jon suggested?
Matt
Well, yeah, that was kind of confusing. But the switch is wired directly into the 240v circuit, exactly the way you'd wire a switch into a 120v circuit to have a switched receptacle for a lamp. I asked the electrician to put it in because I intend to build a doghouse behind my garage similar to the one you did in the photo gallery.
I could always eliminate the switch, by connecting the wires in the switch box and putting a blank face plate on it.
I could always eliminate the switch, by connecting the wires in the switch box and putting a blank face plate on it.
100 amps? Wow - maybe I should just eliminate the switch. Can a twisted, wire-nutted connection handle 100 amps, or does the run have to be a continuous wire? Meaning, can I just pull out the switch and connect the wires in the box, or will I have to run a new, uncut piece of wire from the breaker panel to the DC control box?
I am not an electrician, but I do know that you should not use a single pole 110V switch on one lead of the 220 Volt line going to the motor. In my earlier response, I specified a 2-pole switch designed for 220 volt use. As Matt points out, the motor draws some significant amperage on startup. JJ, you should be able to wire nut the wires if you eliminate the switch you have; just be sure to turn off the power and twist to two wires in a clockwise motion with some electricians pliers before you put the wire nut on. It needs to be #10 wire and with an appropriate sized wore nut.
Matt -- I am going to change the circuit as was suggested in the thread cited above -- if I can just get a round tuit!
Matt -- I am going to change the circuit as was suggested in the thread cited above -- if I can just get a round tuit!
I would recommend you call the electrician that put it in. But Seems to me if he put in a 220 volt circuit at 30 amps with a switch(whether there's a relay or not) then I would say try it. He either installed a relay to the switch or a 220 volt switch and either should be fine at least in my little mind.(I am not an electrician either)
Matt
I know i keep referring to 220 but i guess it's 240 nowadays.
Matt
I know i keep referring to 220 but i guess it's 240 nowadays.
Update and a new question:
I eliminated the switch in the 240V circuit this weekend by removing it and connecting the wires as discussed, but the wiring wasn't like I expected. I had been told that a 240V circuit would have 2 hot wires, 1 neutral, and 1 ground. My wiring has only 3 total wires: coming into (and going out of) the switch, it was 1 black, 1 white that had been wrapped with black tape (signifying "hot"?) and the ground. The switch was labelled "2 pole, 277V max", and both of the not-ground wires from each side were connected to it via the 4 side terminals. The grounds from each direction were wired into 1, and connected to the green screw.
I removed the switch and connected black to black, white wrapped to white wrapped, and ground to ground.
Do I have a proper 240V circuit? I've looked around the internet, and I see both the 3 wire and 4 wire systems. I don't currently (ha!) have a 240V machine to test with, but nothing caught on fire when I turned the breaker back on.
I eliminated the switch in the 240V circuit this weekend by removing it and connecting the wires as discussed, but the wiring wasn't like I expected. I had been told that a 240V circuit would have 2 hot wires, 1 neutral, and 1 ground. My wiring has only 3 total wires: coming into (and going out of) the switch, it was 1 black, 1 white that had been wrapped with black tape (signifying "hot"?) and the ground. The switch was labelled "2 pole, 277V max", and both of the not-ground wires from each side were connected to it via the 4 side terminals. The grounds from each direction were wired into 1, and connected to the green screw.
I removed the switch and connected black to black, white wrapped to white wrapped, and ground to ground.
Do I have a proper 240V circuit? I've looked around the internet, and I see both the 3 wire and 4 wire systems. I don't currently (ha!
) have a 240V machine to test with, but nothing caught on fire when I turned the breaker back on.
Last edited:
Hi,
I don't know if it's proper or not but sounds like you have 240 going to the motor. As Far as the 2 grounds are concerned they call one ground and one neutral but if you look in your breaker panel you will notice they are both connected to the ground bar (if you have any 4 wire). Anyway all you need is the 3 wires for 240. Two 120 volts legs and Ground.
Matt
I don't know if it's proper or not but sounds like you have 240 going to the motor. As Far as the 2 grounds are concerned they call one ground and one neutral but if you look in your breaker panel you will notice they are both connected to the ground bar (if you have any 4 wire). Anyway all you need is the 3 wires for 240. Two 120 volts legs and Ground.
Matt
cvAdmin
Administrator
JJ,
The neutral wire would only be needed if you wanted to pull a 110V circuit ( like installing a 110v outlet at the cyclone) from one of the 110V legs. A ground wire should only be used to ground the motor. A neutral wire is insulated and can carry current. So, to answer your question, you have exactly what you need to run the motor....two hot legs and a ground.
Ed
The neutral wire would only be needed if you wanted to pull a 110V circuit ( like installing a 110v outlet at the cyclone) from one of the 110V legs. A ground wire should only be used to ground the motor. A neutral wire is insulated and can carry current. So, to answer your question, you have exactly what you need to run the motor....two hot legs and a ground.
Ed