Table saw dust ports for CV1800

woodpig

New member
Hell0 -- I am in the process of setting up my new CV1800 system in my 32x40 shop. I will be using 6" sewer & drain PVC for duct work, both the main trunk line and the drops. My plan is to run the 6" as close to the machines as possible, then a wye with 4" pipe or flex running the last few feet to the machine ports. This is pretty standard, from what I understand.

I have a Grizzly G0771Z table saw. It has a single 4" port located on the bottom of the right-hand side of the cabinet. I'm trying to figure out what might be the best place to locate my second 4" port. I know a lot of guys run an overhead system to collect dust off the top of the blade, but I would really prefer not to go that route -- it just seems like it would always be in the way. I'd rather have my second 4" port be somewhere on the cabinet. I was considering putting a port in the top-center of the cleanout panel on the rear of the cabinet, but--before I start cutting holes--I'd love to hear how others with that saw (or one similar) have configured their ports.

Thanks in advance for any ideas...

Bryon
 

Curly1

Member
If you don't want an overhead pickup then why wouldn't you put in one 6" port into the machine and not have the losses of the wye and 4 hoses? Airflow through two 4" hoses is 2/3 of a 6".

You will also need to open the machine to allow replacement air into the cabinet. You can't draw out the dust if there is no airflow. Take the area of the 6" (same if using two 4") and double it (minimum). Total up the area of all the slots and holes etc and then subtract that from the doubled 6" and then make the opening/s that area at least.

Still best to collect the dust from over the blade whenever you can.

Pete
 

woodpig

New member
If one 6" port would provide adequate airflow and extraction, I'd actually prefer to do that. (Maybe that should have been my question to start with: One 6" port/duct or 2 4"-ers?)
I have to confess that I really don't understand what you're saying about return air...I get that the DC needs a supply of air in order to extract dust, so the tool cabinet shouldn't be sealed up tight as some people do. I don't have any of the "natural" openings on my saw blocked--the louvers in the panel next to the motor, the slots for adjusting the height and the tilt of the sawblade -- all open to the wind, so to speak. :) I wouldn't begin to know how to measure the area of those irregularly-shaped slots and louvers, and I don't fancy cutting a bunch more holes in my saw cabinet....if that is what you're suggesting? I may be misunderstanding, though.
Since my first post, I have been looking at the Shark Guard with 4" dust collection fitting, and I wouldn't necessarily mind that as it looks like it's easy to remove.
 

Curly1

Member
Yes I was suggesting cutting more holes in the cabinet but you can achieve the same by removing or cracking open doors or covers to do the same.

Calculating the openings is simply measuring the length and width of an opening and multiply them and adding them to get a total. Like the slot for the tilt may be 2" wide and roughly 12" long so it is 2 x 12 = 24 square inches. Then the 8 louvered slots might be 3" by 1/2" so 3 x .5 x 8 = 12 square inches. Added to the 24" and you have 36 square inches. Doing the same around the top to cabinet and the openings for wires if not sealed etc does it. Much like adding up the square footage inside of your house by measuring each room and closet and adding them up.

A 6" pipe is close to 28 square inches (pi x Raduis Squared) (3.14 x 3 x 3) so you need at least double that, 56 square inches, for the air to be drawn through to the port out of the machine.
A 4" duct is about 12 1/2 square inches.

Pete
 
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