Trash can implosion?

tbeaulieu

New member
Hello,

I just got my new MAX running (input is not hooked to my main yet) and I tried it for a few seconds. I quickly shut it down as the trash can made a loud suction sound and the lid reversed (concave).

Any ideas if this was just a - yeah, that will happen, but it won't get worse - or is something else wrong?

Thanks.
 
Mine did the same and it held after that. But I could not keep the hose sealed so I gave up on the standard lid and made a plywood one. There are sveral examples in the gallery. Whatever way you go make sure the bin is sealed.
Bababrown
 
LOL, yeah when you first turn it on and the can is empty, it's light enough to get picked up off the floor and makes a loud WUNK noise as the lid gets inverted.

Once you get some chips in it, it won't do that.

Also, regarding the leaky hose - the pictures in the instructions are horrible. They're all low resolution, and lead to mistakes, including putting the hose and the crimps on the wrong side of the lid if you're not careful.

You have to pass the hose through the lid and silicone the interface on both the inside and outside of the lid, and it helps to carefully push the "tabs" back into the hose gently, so as not to cut into the hose or to leave sharp edges against it that will wear through.

My first attempt with the hose was on the outside of the lid because I thought that's what the pictures showed, but it leaked in short order.
 
Todd,

I'm not sure if ClearVue warns users not to start up their cyclones when no ductwork is attached (they should), but you are creating the highest possible air flow through the intake that the cyclone can produce in that condition -- these are very efficient blowers and free air meant there was a large amount of negative pressure inside the cyclone, below the blower input. The dust bin you used was the weakest link and tried to "feed the monster". I'm not criticizing you -- you are just getting started.

As bababrown suggested, you need a better dust bin and some ductwork attached before the let the monster play again! I use a heavy duty food grade polyethylene barrel (it was originally used for tomato puree and had a 500 pound weight label on it) with a solid plywood top that has weather stripping in a groove routed to fit over the lip of the barrel. The plastic is 1/8 to 3/16" thick, so it can take lots of negative pressure. A metal drum can also be used if you can find one.
 
Thanks guys. Things have quieted down since the first impression. The can hasn't crushed any more than the initial movement. It is funny to see it lift right off the floor. In fact, I had to reposition the sensors higher!

I used an HVAC starter collar and it works GREAT. I snuck up on the opening with curved shears. It was quite easy to do. I used Lexel for everything because I love the stuff.

Even with a lot of 4" flex hose still on my system (this is a temp hook up until I can redo my ducting) this beast has a ton of suction! I have an Incra down draft router housing under my table and can't believe the suction being drawn across the bit.
 
I bought the Clear Vue and followed the instructions. Why am I such a conformist? I need to live on the wild side: Invest, install and start up without reading the instructions.

All in good fun.
 
My point?

Well, I'm just wondering why those who take the time to research/ find the best dust collector system in the world and are willing to not only spend significant money but also significant amounts of their time to assemble the unit themselves risk damaging their investment thru foolish tinkering.

IF this was a POS from Harbor Freight I could understand the tinkering.

That was my only point.
 
Well you're mistaken if you think I did something foolish. I had EVERYTHING hooked up except for the input duct. What's the difference between hooking up a section of an 8" main directly to a, say a 20" planer that's been ported to 8" versus having it open? Hint: nothing. But thanks for commenting if it made you feel superior.
 
tbeaulieu do you have any detailed photos you could share of your lid with the HVAC collar? I have a large plastic drum and need to make a lid.
Thanks!
 
I know this thread is a bit old but does anyone (tbeaulieu?) have detailed photos of the lid with HVAC collar.
 
I top one looks like a good one. I didn't have one like that available to me, so I snipped little V notches around the perimeter to for a collar. That one already has a collar. I'd push that up through the lid and then use rivets or metal screws and then mastic for leak sealing. One thing to note, though, is that if the trash can is a tight fit under the hanging DC assembly, like mine is, it's easy to snag protruding screws that are facing down through the lid, as you slide the can out from under it, or back into place. Rivets would be ideal. Oh, and you don't need to attach the lid to the can. Just sit it onto the can like you would a garbage can. When the DC is running, it sucks the can into a tight fit .
 
Thank you for replying. I have a large plastic bin and I was going to make a plywood lid. It seems most talk about making a rubber gasket but I cannot seem to follow where the groove is cut to hold it. But you say I don’t need that? Or is it just you don’t need to clamp it down? I really appreciate your help, it’s kind of you to take the time to do so.
 
I haven’t seen those posts. Personally, I’d recommend the aluminum trash can and lid. Simple. Cheap. Durable. Don’t want a bin that’s too big because it gets heavy with chips and dust. Zero need to seal lid. The vacuum makes a crazy tight bind. The lid will actually collapse a bit when you turn it on. Don’t over think it. Start simple. Turn it on. See for yourself.
 
I've attached pictures of the HVAC connector I used. The metal trash can is cheap, but very effective. The lid stays on by the weight of the 6 inch hose pressing down on the lid. Once the ClearVue starts, vacuum pressure takes care of everything else. I do use a thick rubber seal around the inside of the lid.
 

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  • Clear Vue Dust Bin Underside.jpg
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This might be a duplicate message:
I use a cheap metal trash can. As already pointed out, wood dust and chips can get mighty heavy. You want a bin that you can move easily out of your shop and dump it out without hurting yourself. I've attached pictures of my HVAC connector as attached to the lid top and the underside. I do use the thickest window seal material available at my local hardware store. The lid stays on the bin via the weight of the 6 inch connector hose. I cut the hose about 2 inches longer that it needs to be, so that the natural spring of the wire in the hose presses down on the lid. Once the Clear Vue starts, vacuum pressure and science take over. Clear Vue Dust Bin Top.jpg Clear Vue Dust Bin Underside.jpg
 
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