Two horizontal filter assembly and reducing noise- Redo

E

EtzRon

New member
I am upgrading my CV1800 by moving it to the second floor where I can build a closet around it to reduce the noise. I have a question about the side by side filter plenum. How should I build my new plenum? So far I have seen 2 variations, and I am unsure which one will be better. The first variation has 2 circular pieces ( w/ 8" holes) with a smaller box box on top attaching the 2. The second variation is a 16" x 32.5" box w/ the 8" holes. Should the edges of whatever box I make be at the edge of the filter inlet so that if there is any dust in the plenum it will fall down into the filter, or is this unnecessary? Also, should I build up the inside of the square top of the Wynn filter so that when I screw into it it will seal and not indent? (Last time( when I installed one on top of the other, I removed the rubber gasket applied there and applied it to the bottom- should I just leave the rubber gasket there by the square metal lip and screw into the plenum through that square metal lip?)

My system is presently mounted on steel I beams that cause a loud hum when it is working which unnerves me. I plan on mounting it to a cement wall. Any suggestions on how to reduce noise from the wall mount? (It will now be above the steel I beams, and part of the cyclone will go through the floor ( 3/4 " ply) which will be applied to the I beams. I am assuming that having about 1/3 of the cyclone visible will not add to the noise. Is this an incorrect assumption? I plan to close off the motor and side by side filter in a closet. Do I need to insulate the wall side as well? (It will placed in a corner where one side is cinder block and the other concrete).

I also saw a post where someone used tennis balls to reduce noise on the motor mount, but I am unclear on how to do that or if it will be necessary given that I am mounting to a concrete wall at the back of my shop.

Any input is welcome. Thanks in advance.

AG
 
There are some good ideas in the CV Gallery -- for example, in Dave's New Shop, you'll find some pictures about his extra large filter set (looks like he has four filters versus the normal pair) that he has mounted side-by-side. With a little searching, you may find others. I have a colleague on another forum who built a triple side-by-side enclosure for 3 cartridge filters that mount on the wall in his shop and received air from his cyclone in a separate adjacent room through a long sweeping 8" elbow. Here are a couple of pictures of his installation.
filter box open.jpegfilter box done.jpeg

Regarding your issue with reducing vibration hum from the mount that you currently utilize, I would recommend using some motor vibration solation mounts like some of these from McMaster-Carr. I mounted my CV-1800 on a 2-bye frame separated from any walls on a concrete pad. By the way, the majority of the noise from your cyclone will be generated in the blower section and putting the unit above your shop should reduce the ambient noise considerably.
 
Hi McRabbet-

Thanks for your quick answers. Dave's New Shop poses more questions for me than answers...- He has the filters mounted in a box with no clean out and it seems to me that the dust will go everywhere in that box, not just the filters. On the other hand, it is probably easier to take the filter out for a good blow out. However, I cannot blow out in the proximity of my shop (outside) in any case...

I am familiar with the vibration mounts. I tried using them to reduce vibration, but the motor won, due to the mount on the I beams.
 
It looks to me like Dave may have used closed top filters with the air exiting out the bottom. So it would be filtering from outside to inside. ??
bababrown
 
EtzRon,

When marrying the filters to the box, I would think it best that no dust collecting shelf exist at the transition. If for no other reason, it would reduce the amount of dust kicked up when removing a filter. A transition plate to the filters that is flush with the inside of the filter opening may improve air flow by reducing any turbulence, though I am not sure this matters at the filters.

I am not sure I understand “Also, should I build up the inside of the square top of the Wynn filter so that when I screw into it will seal and not indent?”. My belief is that the filter plate should be sealed against air leaks with a compressible gasket. Any deformation of the filter mounting plate could allow leaks and adversely affect the attachment of filter’s pleats to the filter plate.

I doubt that much noise would be transmitted through the concrete. However, since your project is a lot of work and reducing vibration transmitted to the wall easily done, installing some vibration dampening is probably a good idea.

Creating a sound break between mounting brackets and the concrete wall could be done with tennis balls which have a pair of holes drilled through the tennis ball and which line up. The mounting bolt would pass through these holes and attach to the wall. As the fastener is tightened, the tennis ball would collapse and absorb vibration, thus reducing noise. I would also think that strips of mineral wool insulation with slots to accommodate the wall bracket fasteners would also compress and provide some noise dampening.

The impeller housing is likely the source of most of the noise. The motor is quite by comparison and it requires air to run cool. Therefore it seems to me that installing sound absorbing material on top of the impeller housing (leaving space for the motor to breathe) and around the perimeter of the blower housing is likely required to minimize sound from the impeller. Also installing sound absorbing material around the transition where air exits the cyclone could further reduce sound. I suspect some impeller generated noise will pass down into the cyclone. Providing some sound dampening of the cyclone body would probably help but I am not sure to what extent.

Since you are considering separating the filters (rather than stacking the filters), I thought I would mention an idea I saw back when Penn State Industries was selling cyclone dust collectors. The implemented idea could make backwashing the filters with air when it is time for filter cleaning a fair amount easier. When setup with the proper wye fittings and blast gates the cyclone can be configured so that air is drawn into the cyclone through the filters and exhausted outdoors. If I had the space, I would have set the CV1800 in this manner.

The first wye fitting and blast gates would be setup as an alternate path for the in-flow of air. One blast gate would close off air flow to the cyclone from the machines while the second blast gate on the other leg of the wye would be opened. This opened second blast gate would connect via flex hose to the fine dust cleanout box where fine dust uncollected by the filters accumulates.

A wye fitting and a pair of blast gate at the cyclone exhaust would either direct air flow to the filters or to a pipe or hose that runs outdoors. The blast gate to the filters is closed and the blast gate to the outside is opened.

In this configuration (where air flow from machine into the cyclone closed and the blast gate to the filter cleanout box open; and the blast gate from the cyclone to the filters closed and the blast gate to the outdoors open), the cyclone is turned on and air is pulled from the outside of and through the filters dislodging dust inside the filters where it is carried to the cyclone for separation. The air then exits the cyclone through the open blast gate to the outdoors.

An alternative exists if exhausting air outdoors is not an option. It would be a setup where only one filters is used to draw air into the cyclone. This filter would be air backwashed. The cyclone exhaust would be directed to the second filter and exhausted in the normal manner. The advantage to this configuration is that only one filter requires backwashed with compressed air.
 
I am about 4 weeks into the redo, nearing the final stages and the closing in the system. I cannot vent outside, but with the side by side plenum, it will be easy to disassemble the filters and take it outside at night and blow it out. Hopefully that won't need to be done quite so often with the bin sensor. More often than not, during a project , I forget to keep rack of the bin and thus over filling the filters.

I have a question about baffles- how big should I make it (them). My box is going to be 150 cm ( 59") x 190 cm (75") x 219 (86") tall. The unit is in a corner with the motor wall mounted and about 6" of the cyclone sticking through the floor. I can do one or two baffles, but the main reason I did this upgrade was to reduce the sound! I have a 7" D left over metal pipe from my Oneida that I am going to use to bring the air down to the baffle, but what size should the baffle itself be? And how big the opening? the channels? Should there be two baffles?
 
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