Type of remote included with electrical box?

[Jonathan]

Hi,

I was just about to click buy on a CV1800 and electrical box, then thought I should double check that the included remote is an RF remote and not an IR remote, correct? I couldn't find any info on that anywhere. I'm mounting the cyclone in the attic above the shop, so I definitely need an RF remote where line of site is not needed.

Thanks,

Jonathan

 

[McRabbet]

I am pretty certain that the remote is a wireless RF unit. It also has DIP switches to allow the code to be changes in case of interference with garage door units. To be absolutely certain, contact ClearVue Cyclone customer service and they can give you the definite answer.

 

[jkjordan]

Jonathan,

I don't know what Clear Vue supplies now, but when I bought my CV1800 and electrical box a couple of years ago they supplied a Carlon HW2190 Heavy Duty Remote Control. This is an RF unit that sends a digital code to the receiver (you can change the code to use more than one of these at a time for different functions. I've disassembled one to examine the circuit. It is not an IR unit - I have my remote receiver mounted inside a box as described below. It will definately work through three 2x6 insulated walls and six sheets of 1/2" plywood. I have my receiver in the main shop and the cyclone is in a sound-insulated closet - the remote works every time from both areas and even from outside the building. I bought several spares and the packages claim these remotes will work 150 ft away. I have not tested for that distance but it will definately work from inside my house with the receiver about 80 ft away outside.

BTW, Amazon used to carry these and I bought three as spares and to get some extra transmitters. The packages were about $16 each at the time. Unfortunately Amazon has apparently switched to a cheap junk version which has a bunch of bad reviews. (The product photo on Amazon still shows the Carlon unit but it lies.) If ClearVue still supplies the Carlon it should work fine for your installation.

In case you are interested, I modified and installed my electrical box, remote, and McRabbet bin sensor system differently than instructed and I think it is a better way to go for a remote install. The following might sound confusing but it is actually pretty simple. Basically, the electrical box is in the closet with the cyclone and the remote receiver and McRabbet controller is in the main shop with the woodworking tools.

In the closet with the cyclone I installed just the 220v cyclone relay (contactor), 220v receptacle, 30A 220v cyclone power disconnect switch, and a 110v switch with pilot light. The 120v switch provides power to the remote receiver and bin sensor controller I mounted in the main shop. In a single plastic box in the main shop, I installed the remote receiver and all the components from the disassembled McRabbet bin sensor controller - circuit board, relay, connecters, alarm, strobe, and power supply. (I replaced the McRabbet switches with some I like better.) Also, everything in this box in the main shop is powered through a second 110v switch/pilot light wired in series with the switch in the cyclone closet. A 14ga romex cable from the McRabbet relay in this box controls the 220v cyclone relay back in the closet. Also coming from this box are the two low-voltage wires to the McRabbet "garage door" optical bin sensors, run inside the walls.

This method has several advantages. The two 110v switches must both be "on" with pilots lighted for the cyclone to work so I can disable i tfrom either the closet or the shop. It cannot possibly come on while I'm emptying the bin, etc. The remote receiver is in the main shop so the remote cyclone can be operated reliably regardless of its location and the walls or obstructions between (the cyclone could be mounted underground or behind 5' Kryptonite walls and the remote will still work) In addition, this installation is very clean without exposed bin sensor wires, wall wart power supply, or components mounted with wire ties. All wires are in the walls. The only receptacle in the whole installation is for the cyclone motor. So far things have worked flawlessly. I have some pictures if there is any interest (and if I can figure out how to post them!)

John K Jordan

 

[McRabbet]

John,

I'm happy to hear that your remodel of the electrical box and my bin sensor system works well for you -- you didn't mention that you bought it two years ago. I'd like to see some pictures of your atypical installation, but it is obvious that most users won't have the expertise to make your type of changes.

If you want to post pictures, you'll find it is fairly straight forward under the "Go Advanced" button and "Manage Attachments". You'll find you can upload pictures easily as long as they are not too big.

 

[jkjordan]

Remote install - electrical

Remote install - electrical

Rob,

As you asked, I am attaching some pictures or at least attempting to. (Perhaps all this should be moved to a more appropriate area in the forum.)

Yes, I bought the CV1800 a couple of years ago along with everything I thought I would need, including pipe and fittings. I'm just now getting to where I can install everything. Building a shop by yourself from clearing the ground to painting the walls can't be rushed! BTW, my shop is 25'x62' with heat and air, DC and air compressor in a sound-insulated room, DC ducts above the ceiling, and includes an office, welding room, machine shop area, electronics bench, and vehicle maintenance bay as well as wood working. Good fun!

It was a bit involved to redesign the control system and I don't expect too many people would take the effort. However, the two biggest improvements for a remote cyclone installation are trivial to make:

1) To put the remote controller receiver in the main room instead of in the cyclone closet simply requires putting the receiver on the other end of the 14ga NM cable that has to be run anyway.
2) Having two controller disconnect switches wired in series (one in the shop and one in the closet) requires running one additional 14ga NM cable. 110v power can be supplied on either end. I do recommend using a pilot light at least on the switch in the shop.

The photos, assuming I uploaded and attached them properly, show my electrical installation. The first should show the slightly modified CV electrical box with a motor disconnect switch mounted in the left-hand duplex box instead of the 110v receptacle which is no longer needed. The breaker boxes on either side are for the cyclone and air compressor (which share the sound control room) and a 110v subpanel to power lights and the controller with the first controller disconnect switch. (the second breaker box was not strictly needed but was convenient) The second photo shows the plastic box in the shop area that contains all the components of the McRabbet controller (except the bin sensors, of course) plus the Carlon wireless remote receiver. Below is the second controller disconnect switch. The third photo is a peak inside the shop box. I think I sent this photo to you in August of '13, or meant to.

JKJ

 

[McRabbet]

John,

Thanks for the new pictures -- I had forgotten that you had sent me a few other pictures some time back and I looked back at them to get more details. Your mods to the electrics and controls are ingenious and obviously effective. It puts components like the 12 V power supply and wireless remote switch into enclosures to provide a cleaner looking installation and completely hidden wiring. Nice job.

 

[pgelburd]

I would like to add a light indicator when the dust collector is running. The work shown here is impressive and probably overkill for my needs. Since I'm not electrician-caliber, is there an easy way to add a light that goes on and off with the dust collector remote? My dust collector is outside the workshop in a noise reduction shed. The remote receiver is in the workspace.

 

[fowlermattie]

Hello guys! I'm glad to join your community.