Wiring set up

[flyboy4060]

I am in the process of wiring up the Leeson motor for my cyclone. I have the H230B contactor, but would like to add a few things after viewing some items on the forum here. Specifically I would like to go a few steps farther than another gentleman on the forum did. He had the contactor wired to a home made bin full sensing system, which I would like to copy.

These are the options I would like to incorporate.
1) Contactor switched on/off by remote control.
2) Cyclone shut down via Bin Full sensing system.
3) Master on/off switch(hot feed from shop lights) to prevent Ghost start-ups.

To me it seems pretty simple and all options are 120v. But I can't seem to wrap my head around the wiring and how to connect everything. The Master is simple, but how do I integrate the Bin Full system and the remote system?

Any thoughts? A diagram would be most helpful.

 

[Roger D]

Just wire 110v outlet from your shop light circuit. Then plug this remote or one like into the outlet. Cut the plug end off an extension cord and use it to wire the Allen-Bradley 700HA32A1.

McRabbet has laid out the rest here.

I have just done basically the same thing. Pretty straight forward. So far it works pretty good.

 

[McRabbet]

Flyboy4060 (John): I answered your PM about this approach yesterday, but did not know in that response which version of my bin sensor design you had referenced; I suspect it is the one that is in the thread that Roger D referenced above because it has the On/Off Service switch you asked about. That switch is an On-Off-On single pole switch that is set to an On position to allow the Red photocell output to pass to the relay coil; Off to service the bin; and the other On to test the relay without a full bin. It can be found at one of my favorite suppliers, All Electronics. Your biggest challenge is to find a photocell (photoeye in the diagram) that will work since the Summit unit I specified is no longer available through Lowe's. Most of the newer "dusk-to-dawn" photocell unit have a built-in delay as long as a minute, so they may not respond before the bin overflows. I would also replace the 7-watt candelabra bulb with a small compact fluorescent or LED bulb. All Electronics also carries small strobe lights that can be used in the shop with a small 12 Volt DC power supply in place of the Red light bulb I used.

As I said in my PM, all of this "home-brew" wiring has been replaced with my newer Bin Level Sensor system that relies on low voltage electronics and very reliable sensors at the bin - the units are sold through the ClearVue Cyclones website for just $225.

 

[flyboy4060]

Thanks for the info. I have a pretty good handle on the wiring now.