Blower Vac Conversion Lid

M

mgerholdt

New member
Hello,

I am considering the Blower Vac Conversion Lid for use with a small CNC router in my garage. I am using a Porter-Cable 7310 5.6 Amp 3/4 Horsepower Laminate Trim Router, which blows air straight down.

I am planning on a dust collection "boot", like this one:
u4.JPG


Will the Blower Vac Conversion Lid and the recommended Wet/Dry Vac be a reasonable dust collection system for this type of setup?

One other quick question: If I buy the conversion lid and the Wet/Dry Vac, what else do I need? Maybe a Cleanstream hepa filter?

Thanks!

- Matt
 
Lid

Lid

Matt,

Suggest you first try making the boot, then see if dust collection with just a typical shop vac (assuming you have one handy, not suggesting you run out and buy one just for this test). If the dust collection meets your expectations, then the conversion lid plus the specified vac will increase the time between having to clean out the vac's bucket and filter.

As for the HEPA filter, guess it depends somewhat on what you're cutting. I don't know if CleanStream filters are avail for the vacs the conversion lid fits, but assuming they do, they're not all that expensive, $30 or so. And HEPA. And they clean easily with a garden hose. I have three or four, for an old Genie vac and a couple of Feins.

Regardless of whether or not you use a conversion lid: When scheming your boot, you don't want to reverse the cooling airflow of the P-C router. I've heard stories of folks burning out their routers in tables by sucking air out from below the router's motor, effectively killing the cooling flow inside the router. Glancing at your photo, doesn't appear this will be a problem if the one you build is similar in that the motor and its intake are outside the boot.

Another consideration is the amount of dust and chips you typically generate. If a huge amount, you might consider acquiring a Mini CV and supplying a larger collection bin, along with a suitable vac.

Regards,
DWD
 
Hi,

The other probem with sucking through the router is that it pulls chips into it also which in turn breaks the plastic cooling fins which in turn burns it out. I would consider using brushes on the guard in addition to seperating the pipe from the router. McMaster carr sells Strip Brushes which work well if you can figure out how to attach them. I am using the ones with metal strips but they also sell pvc and nylon backed ones. That will help alot in being able to use your shop vac but still may not do the trick and as dave said try and see.


Matt
 
Thanks!

I'm still a little confused about what "good enough" means for dust collection. There's the "gets most of the sawdust" level, and then there is the "Dylos Particle Counter" level.

From what I read on Bill Pentz's site (I've only read a fraction), it sounded like getting most of the sawdust wasn't good enough. I was confused about the CFM requirements table, which seemed to indicate that most tools need 350+ CFM dust collection.

It seems like a typical shop vac does about 200 CFM. However, later on the same page Bill talks about hand tools, and indicates that a shop vac might be a better choice for a hand tool like a sander. Interesting.

So are there any rules of thumb for knowing when a dust collection system is "good enough", short of using a particle counter?

Matt: Thanks for the brush suggestion, too. That makes sense.


Edit: I was just browsing the forum, and I saw that Dave had posted a similar reply in the Welcome section a couple of month's ago. Excellent advice, and I apologize for not poking around a little more before posting. I'll definately spend some more time absorbing information on Bill's site. Thanks again!
 
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No problem, Matt, that's why some of us watch these boards and reply as best we can. And sometimes the older posts aren't readily apparent due to the forum's display settings, which I think are set here at 100 days, if memory serves. It is possible to see the older posts, but one must notice the "button" and change the setting.

Speaking only for myself, when I say "good enough", I realize sometimes there's a tradeoff between effectiveness and bucks. Yes, ideally one should and would strive to obtain the sort of OSHA approved or better environs Pentz describes, for all the health reasons he details if not for just the more pleasant work environment.

But sometimes something has to give, especially in today's world. Or sometimes the amount of time a hobbyist can spend woodworking really can't justify the large machines. It would be like buying a Lambo or Ferrari to use as a grocery getter: can be done by some, would be nice if all could afford to, but for these folks, its overkill.

So if you're debating between a Mini or a full size, and one can argue both have their place in the shop, it really boils down to how and how much you use your shop, and what your personal expectations are.

Hope that's more clear.

Regards,
DWD
 
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