Can You Do This?

bassplugger

New member
I have a 1800 ordered and 3 weeks wait time. So now planning duct layout and wondering if you can run low voltage wire to where each blast gate is to be installed and wire a switch (maybe doorbell switch?) at each of those locations to turn DC on and off. Don't know it that is a good idea or not, or even if it will work. Any thoughts of ideas from you guys will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tim
 
My thoughts are to leave the DC running if you are moving from one machine to another with any regularity over short periods of time. The accepted rationale is the start-up current and stress on the motor is more costly than leaving it running with the gates closed. The decision comes with practice, which I too will discovery. One other consideration is whether the DC is within earshot and the level of noise is uncomfortable.
 
Tim, I use the remote control which I keep in a pocket of my shop apron and that works great and avoids the need to run a bunch of low voltage wiring and corresponding switches. BTW, I've found that I can turn the system on and off with my remote from at least 70 feet away.

While it probably is best to leave the system running while you are working in the shop, I just don't enjoy working with all the noise so I just run the system while I am using powered shop equipment. I will leave it running if I need to make a number of cuts or other operations and I avoid frequent start-ups / shut-downs. If I am doing something like hand sanding, I just use my ceiling mounted JDS air filter.

I've found that the impeller keeps spinning after shut-down for about two minutes or more (I've never actually timed it), so if you turn the system back on while the impeller is still spinning, I would guess that the start up load is decreased, at least a bit. Does anyone have more information on this and is that, in case, true?
 
Tim, I use the remote control which I keep in a pocket of my shop apron and that works great and avoids the need to run a bunch of low voltage wiring and corresponding switches. BTW, I've found that I can turn the system on and off with my remote from at least 70 feet away.

I do the same thing. I picked up a couple of extra remotes and keep them scattered around the shop so one is usually easy to find.

There are systems out there with low voltage wiring to a contact switch on each blast gate. Open a gate and the CV is automatically turned on. It would be great if there is a turn off delay of maybe 1 minute so you can move from one machine to another without all the start/stop cycles. Otherwise, you will probably find yourself leaving a blast gate open, walking to the next station to open another blast gate, then walking back to close the first blast gate. After all that effort, it would be easier to just use a remote.

Steve
 
Fingerpicker,
The problem with turning the single phase CV1800 back on with the impeller still running is that the starter winding does not kick back in until the speed gets quite low. So the motor has to come back up to speed on its own. The centrifugal switch kicks out at high rpm but does not kick back in until the motor slows to low rpm. I do not have numbers but I can hear mine kick back in when the speed is really slow. My Delta 12" disk sander does the same thing and it takes a long time (many seconds)to come up to speed when restarted. I'm sure it runs at high current during that time.
bababrown
 
thanks for all the replies guys, You have got me thinking that the remote deal is the way to go. Are there alternatives to having a remote system other than buying the one from clearvue? Seems a like I've heard of some type maybe on ebay, not sure. Do all you guys use the one from clearvue?
 
thanks for all the replies guys, You have got me thinking that the remote deal is the way to go. Are there alternatives to having a remote system other than buying the one from clearvue? Seems a like I've heard of some type maybe on ebay, not sure. Do all you guys use the one from clearvue?

I built my own, but would only recommend that approach if you are qualified to do 220V electrical wiring. If not, then purchasing an assembled unit is the best solution. You could build your own for less than $100, but $250 for the quality and safety of an assembled unit is not too bad of a price.

Steve
 
I built my own, but would only recommend that approach if you are qualified to do 220V electrical wiring. If not, then purchasing an assembled unit is the best solution. You could build your own for less than $100, but $250 for the quality and safety of an assembled unit is not too bad of a price.

Steve

I have plenty of experience with 220 circuit but there was enough to do without getting into that, and in the immortal words of Forrest Gump: "It one less thing".

Alan
 
I do the same thing. I picked up a couple of extra remotes and keep them scattered around the shop so one is usually easy to find.

There are systems out there with low voltage wiring to a contact switch on each blast gate. Open a gate and the CV is automatically turned on. It would be great if there is a turn off delay of maybe 1 minute so you can move from one machine to another without all the start/stop cycles. Otherwise, you will probably find yourself leaving a blast gate open, walking to the next station to open another blast gate, then walking back to close the first blast gate. After all that effort, it would be easier to just use a remote.

Steve

steve,

You could include a time-delay-off relay in the circuit which are readily available through digikey, mcmaster carr, grainger, or many other suppliers.
 
Back
Top