Critique my ducting plan

[ryanjg117]

Finally finished drywalling my 40x30' shop, so next step is to install the CV1800 I've had in storage. I've laid it all out in SketchUp and am looking for some feedback as this is the first real dust collection system I've put together. In general, I read up on recommendation and made sure to use gradual sweeps and kept the full 6" diameter as close to the tool as I could. Some notes specific to my workspace:

* I intentionally placed the DC and air compressor (loud things) in my storage room, away from the workspace. This results in a longer run but it's worth it (to me) to keep the noise down.

* Not pictured, but flex hose will make the final connection to most machines.

* The miter saw station has its own dedicated dust collector, as does the JumboMFT table.

* Not pictured but I have two long lengths of LED lights (in the old 8' fluorescent fixtures), ceiling mounted, that run front-to-back in the main room, so I'd like to avoid crossing the ductwork over those lights if possible. That forced me to go with the three-branch design.

* Blast gates are mounted low - I know there is some debate on this but I'd prefer not to use a broomstick to open and close them. Should I have additional blast gates at each main branch?

* The main pipe leaving the CV1800 has a 11 degree bend at the end of it, to correct for the 11 degree upward exit on the CV1800. I'm "hoping" that I can heat up the S&D pipe and (perhaps with some kind of filler tube) insert that gradual bend into the end. Thoughts on whether this is possible? It's very tough to find 11.25 degree elbows in SDR-35 fittings.

 

[McRabbet]

Ryanjg117,

I would suggest that you install the wye that is closest to the cyclone on the storage side of the wall and make two penetrations so that the run serving your tools adjacent to the storage room wall (Edge sander, Table Saw and Jointer) will not require the "kink" that returns the straight section back along the wall and you can eliminate a few 45* elbows. Yes, it will require shortening the straight run back to the cyclone, but it appears you have enough space to do this. To make that 11 degree bend, you can try the pipe heating or better yet, use a 6" x 6" Fernco connector like this. Another (untried by me) method would be to cut across the PVC at about 5 - 1/2 degrees at the 9' end of a section and rotate that piece 180 degrees and glue it back together with solvent cement to form an 11 degree bend. Your drops are fine -- keep the amount of flexible duct to a minimum. I would also advise that you upgrade the ports on each tool up to 6" to insure full flow (you can make your own using straight couplings and plywood -- Search for my post on this from several years ago).

 

[wmlutz]

What I did for the 11 degrees angle at the top of the straight run from the CV1800 was to take a 22.5 degrees SDR -35 fitting and cut a wedge out of the center and "weld" it back together with a HF plastic "welder" to make a 11 degrees fitting. It has been in service for about a year and a half without any issue. I also used a 6" X 6" Fernco connector at the upper end of the straight section leaving the CV1800 to isolate vibration between the CV1800 and the duct work attached to the ceiling.