CV1800 Hanging From Floor Joists in Closet

[TomTaylor]

My Basement is unique or maybe not. I have 84" of head room to the floor joists above. I have had to repair and support my cinder block wall because clay was used for the back fill material and it had bowed in. The wall has been repaired; the exterior excavated and new weep holes and drain tiles installed and properly backfilled with #1 washed stone. Inside there are 2 X 5 beams anchored to the footings tho the floor joist above all along its length and new drain tiles leading to a sump crock installed. Across the bottom of the 2x10 floor joist 1/4 inch x 4 inch plates across three joist were installed to keep the beam anchored at the top.
Here is what I would like to do. At the second and third joist cavity hang my CV1800 between two 1/4x4X50 inch plates 48 inches apart. I have these 5 foot 1 inch square tubes with 1/8 in walls that would hold everything no problem.
My included .jps should give you an idea of what this is all about. The hangar tubes are not drawn in just yet. I do think I could leave out the crowns, anchor the wall to to the cinder block and there by not attaching to the floor above. There will be a standard 2' 6" door in the rough opening.
Any Comments are welcome. There is also a glass block window to the right of the closet and the reason I have not made it larger. This is my first choice for a locatiion and if it just won't work its back to Sketchup the free program from Google and a great program for woodworkers and a bunch of more moving of my shop.
Tom

 

[McRabbet]

Looks like a winner to me! By mounting your motor - blower assembly to the closet framing, you will isolate it from the joists and thus reduce any potential noise transfer to the floor above. My CV is also mounted on a floor slab in a frame of 2 x 4 and 2x 6 materials in my high crawl space under my shop. And I echo your comment about Sketchup!

 

[TomTaylor]

Ok Free Standing it is

Ok Free Standing it is

Looks like I just have a bit of redraw to do.
Thanks for sharing. Have to see what I come up with next.
Do you think I would benifit from Anti Vibration Pads like these: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...ER+HEAVY+DUTY+BLUE+4x4x7/8&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Tom

 

[Fingerpicker]

Hello Tom,

A few of cautions as I just finished hanging my CV1800 in a closet in my shop.

First, make sure that you have more than minimal room in front of the motor mount brackets to allow installing the motor and motor mounting board. It is heavy and you need to lift it up straight, then slide it onto the brackets. This is very difficult in a tight space and is really a two person task.

Second, make sure you have enough room to pull your dust bin past the filter stack and out the closet door for emptying. I thought I had it all worked out, but I ended up having to lift up the can a bit in order to clear the filter clean-out box I made which is 14" square x 8" tall. Not a huge problem, but also not optimal.

I recommend putting a light in the closet.

As is noted in other threads, make sure the motor is wired prior to installing it.

If budget allows, install one of the McRabbet bin sensors from the get-go.

Current building codes require a service disconnect near the electrical connection box in most cases which will also probably be in your closet. Plan for good access to the electrical box and wiring.

I am working on a new album of photos documenting my installation. This will be in the Gallery section of the CV site, not the forums. Good luck.

Kim Kasdorf (Fingerpicker)

 

[TomTaylor]

Electrical Box and Disconnect

Electrical Box and Disconnect

Thanks for the heads up.
I had planned for the box to be outside on the right hand side of the closet. So we hard wire from the motor load the relay box to a line disconnect then all the way back to the breaker panel. I have an electrician friend I will call when the time comes. I did want a 120 circuit and outlet with the 220 30 amp for the CV1800. I really wanted to add a disconnect switch so I was prepared for that. I will have to see about the added expense of the bin full setup. I have looked at the Oneida-Air and saw it was much less. I am not sure what way to go.
Getting the motor impeller up will get my nephews help. The square tubing it will hang from is 60 inches the closet 45. The long ends go up first then with parashoot cord and pullies we will hoist the motor. I can slip a bench in the door and get it up in stages. I think this all should work.
I will now that you mention it definitely put a light in side.
I too will post photos in an album. Just not the current mess.

 

[wgraham]

question to Tom Taylor

question to Tom Taylor

My basement also has only 90" of ceiling height to finished sheetrock ceiling. I have cut open the sheetrock in part of a 6'x6' three-sided space between my furnace enclosure (3/4 plyw. on 2x4' walls) and the concrete basement exterior wall (will wall in the 4th side when finished, with door) . I am thinking that instead of using the 90-degree exhaust unit supplied by CV to connect to the stacked Wynn filters, I would use a flex pipe piece. You seem to be building a plyw box unit that fits directly onto the main cyclone exhaust and onto the top of the top filter. Is that correct? That seems an even better idea. But is there any reason not to put aside the 90-degree unit and use a straight connection such as you have here? Thanks.

Bill

 

[TomTaylor]

Bill here is why I choose this design

Bill here is why I choose this design

I will use French cleats to hang the transition box. On the inlet will be an 8 inch bell mouth fitting I found cheap. On the blower 90 that faces down will be another 8 inch bell mouth. Between them will be insulated 8 inch flex duct that offers the best muffler and it will make a u-turn at the floor. I have space for a folded baffle to return air to the shop. Above the transition box I have the option to make a cut to take the air to the outside in summer but I am an outside guy in summer so that may never happen and I have found a cool Ultimate Portable Workbench http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJoGTf6KL8s for working in the garage.Here are some more drawings. All of my tools are on lockable 3" casters and moveable but I like the central trunkline idea.
I am always looking for input.
Tom