The most likely causes of dust going all the way through your filters to the clean out box are the following: (1) your blower motor is rotating in the improper direction; (2) you have significant leakage drawing air into the dust collection bin (check the flex hose collar, the lid seal and any leaks in the bin itself -- use a smoke stick while the unit is running).
Thank you, I will do more trouble shooting today. My unit is in a small washroom. Should there be a lot of pressure coming out? For example it blows the washroom door closed and there is very strong air blowing under the door.
I had the motor switched and the dust seems to be going the right way but it also seems I don’t have as much suction. So disappointing, will have to troubleshoot some more. I am worried my straight out take is too short, only 2 feet. I really couldn’t do it any other way.
Your motor should be wired for Clockwise rotation (CW) when looking from above the motor. Here is an excerpt from the manual:
1. Use the CW wiring diagram from the motor plate.
a. L1 connects to P1
b. L2 connects to (T4 & T8)
c. P3 & T1 & T5 – wire together
d. The ground wire (bare wire) goes to a green screw inside the motor connection
Your description also suggests that you may be constraining return air from the washroom. I would suggest that you add a return air grille with a 1" filter (12" x 20") in each side of the door to provide some sound deadening and to allow air to return without much drag. You can find the grilles and filters at your local Big Box home improvement store. A more sophisticated air return (assuming the walls of the washroom are studs with drywall) is to cut an opening high on the inside wall near the motor that spans a stud cavity, add a return air grille, and then cut a hole on the outside of the wall at the base of the stud cavity and add another grille. This forms a good return air plenum that will also serve to deaden the sound. Another benefit is that air from your filters in the washroom will rise in the room to help keep the cyclone motor cooled as it enters the plenum.
Thank you for your help. My electrician switched the motor... I can do a lot of things but not that. Can I assume he would understand the above information you provided when he ‘switched’ the motor?
The bathroom walls are soundproofed, I put resilient channels, insulation and extra drywall on two inner walls. The other walls are exterior. The washroom is about 7’ x 7’? Perhaps I would be better to enclose the unit inside the washroom? Attachment is not to scale.
Since you have already sound-deadened the interior walls of the washroom, the internal plenum in the walls won't be practical, but you do need to provide additional passage for the air that the cyclone is releasing inside that space -- my earlier suggestion of adding a pair of grilles and a filter through the door should improve performance.
I had assumed that the washroom door would open into your shop space, but it looks like it opens to the outside, so the suggestion I made earlier to place grilles in the door would not work. You need to return air back into the shop. You could open the window, but then if have heat in your shop in the winter or A/C in the summer, you will be drawing outside air back into the shop and losing energy. Based on your diagram above, I would cut a hole through the wall above the filter stack (near the motor level) to fit the grilles on the inside and outside of the wall. Line the inside of the hole with masonite to keep the cavity clean and put a low-cost filter in each grille. You will get the benefit of keeping the conditioned air in your workspace and improving air flow back to the shop.
I suggest expanding on McRabbet's wall cavity return by having a box on the outside of the bathroom wall. An opening 3 times the inlet ducting size, assuming 6" duct, of about 83 square inches into the box lined with acoustic ceiling tiles or sound absorbing foam. The inside of the box having a baffle/s so the air has to take an S turn or two to the bottom and out through the same size or bigger opening. The passages inside the box have to maintain that cross sectional area to minimize resistance. If you don't have the space down the wall it could be mounted to the ceiling to accomplish the same.
I 'll add that after you have the baffle box made put a door sweep like the ones on exterior doors to the bottom of the door if you can. It will help keep the noise in the bathroom.
McRabbet: My washroom door opens into the washroom. So, sorry if I am not understanding...Do I just need one cavity high on the wall near the filter stack with a return air grill on each side And NOT a filter(s). And nothing in the door. I appreciate your time in helping me.
Pete, I will add the door sweep, thank you. I don’t think putting an S shaped baffle in the wall will be easy. I have resilient channels, sound proofing insulation and double drywall on that wall. Are the grills/baffles to help the suction of the cyclone? Thank you.
Not in the wall but on the outside of it. Think of it as a muffler to an engine The muffler is outside the engine compartment. Had you designed it into the wall when you built it would be hidden. I'm suggesting adding it outside so with the exception of the hole through the wall it doesn't change. The passages inside the box need to be big enough to not add resistance to the airflow away from the cyclone. Thus the 3X recommendation. You can put grills and filters on if you like it to look neat but keep in mind the grill bits have an area you have to account for. A 10" x 10" grill might have 2" x 10" of edges and louver thickness giving you an open area of 8" x 10". Any back pressure reduces the suction so the goal is to minimize it where practical.
Julie if the cyclone and toilet are inside the wall then the "muffler" will be on the other side of it or outside the wall with just an opening through the wall to the muffler for the air to move through.
I will link you to the Aussie forum that has a fair dust collection section. It shows several ways to control the sound. I was suggesting one like the diagram #3 in post 6. Either mounted to the shop ceiling or down the outside bathroom wall.