sreilly24590
New member
Thanks for the reply Rushton. I'll start with that and work my way around. I hadn't seen the comment about the grommet. Trash can sealing is on the agenda for today.
-Steve
-Steve
Height of duct connection at CV1800
- Thread starter sreilly24590
- Start date
cvcsupport
Administrator
It is important to make sure your barrel and connection to the base of the cyclone is completely airtight. Anytime you have a leak around the base of the cyclone or in the barrel, it causes turbulence which in turn pushes dust into the exhaust stream which then ends up in your filter stack. Checking for leaks is easy to do - all you need is some kind of smoke-producing device, like an incense stick. With your system running, waft the smoke around the various seams at the base of your cyclone and lid of your drum. If you see the smoke get pulled in, you have a leak.
sreilly24590
New member
I'll try to test that today. I did run, again, to the local (45 minutes) hardware store to get the insulation for the lid. And I re-caulked the connector from the PVC to the CV, the rectangular to round clear connector. I'm finding that the clear caulk I started using back when I started this is curing very slowly now even though it was properly capped when last used, maybe 2 months ago. That and maybe the temperature (mid 60s) in the basement isn't helping any. I did run the jointer and planner after the sealing was done and didn't notice the filter stack getting any chips but I hadn't really blown off the filters yet either. Is there a posted recommended testing procedure to do after initial installation is completed? A procedure to use to check periodically? I don't think I can take pressure readings as I don't have access to the tools I use to when I was actively working as a HVAC tech. Actually I do have a few water column manometers so I should be able to read pressure differentials shouldn't I? These read from 0-15".
-Steve
-Steve
sreilly24590
New member
Update....I did get the 2" wide rubber tape and put several layers around the inside of the lid for the barrel (trash can) which did make a difference. I can see the can compress a bit when turned on now. I have also put the clear silicon around the 6" hose going to the connector on the lid but used a clamp for the connection to the base of the Cyclone as I need to be able to remove it from time to time. There was a suggestion of checking with smoke/vapor but I have yet to figure a way to produce this to see if any air is being sucked in at these locations. Will search the web for some reasonable way to do this.
Meanwhile the past few days I completed, well almost as I need to hang the door, the closet that the CV1800 sits in now. I used rockwool insulation which really deadened the noise level. My table saw makes more noise than the CV1800. In fact if you stand in the middle between the table saw (not running) and the CV1800 there's more noise from the air being sucked out of the table saw than the running CV1800. This was well worth the expense to do and makes it easier to use the basement shop in the evening even if my wife is watching TV upstairs almost directly above. You hear a low hum mostly but with the TV volume at normal level you really have to listen for the CV1800. I also removed the long tie straps I had holding the piping in place with a black webbed strap which looks much nicer and neater. That was the plan all along but the tie straps make for a excellent temporary strap while laying out and installing.
Now just to make sure the system is running at peak efficiency.....and mount the door. I'll post a few pictures later in a day or two.
-Steve
Meanwhile the past few days I completed, well almost as I need to hang the door, the closet that the CV1800 sits in now. I used rockwool insulation which really deadened the noise level. My table saw makes more noise than the CV1800. In fact if you stand in the middle between the table saw (not running) and the CV1800 there's more noise from the air being sucked out of the table saw than the running CV1800. This was well worth the expense to do and makes it easier to use the basement shop in the evening even if my wife is watching TV upstairs almost directly above. You hear a low hum mostly but with the TV volume at normal level you really have to listen for the CV1800. I also removed the long tie straps I had holding the piping in place with a black webbed strap which looks much nicer and neater. That was the plan all along but the tie straps make for a excellent temporary strap while laying out and installing.
Now just to make sure the system is running at peak efficiency.....and mount the door. I'll post a few pictures later in a day or two.
-Steve
al_voisine
New member
sreilly24590 - Really great post of your build and issues. Do you have a plan/description of your closet? How did you get the low sound level without a door on the closet? I would appreciate as many details as possible.
Thanks,
Al
Thanks,
Al
sreilly24590
New member
Al,
This project started with the mounted CV1800 on my exterior basement wall and chalk lines on the unfinished basement floor. I was simply visualizing what I needed for a closet to encase this unit that would be compact enough to hold it and dampen the noise as well as functional if I needed to work on any aspect of the unit. The cleanout and filters are done by removing (taking the screws out) of the small 12" tall short panel on the front left corner and the filters can be fully accessed by taking the left side panel off, again removing the screws. Nothing is nailed as I had just gotten my Kreg Foreman Pocket-Hole Machine and was anxious to get familiar with it. This makes it possible to disassemble and move if ever necessary. I used slotted pine paneling just like I did in the control room (warm room) of my roll off roof observatory hence the web address astral-imaging,com. I used 2x6 for the top/bottom of the door using dados to insert the panel. I was going to use 2x4 for the door sides with dados and then rip in half to use but the panel proved a bit too curved to do this without putting a good deal of stress on the 2x so I got some 1x4's and sandwiched the panel which worked out much better and had less stress. I did dress the door 2x's using the jointer and planer. I can't tell you how frustrating it is trying to find true boards at the big box stores. even when they list and charge for "Premium" it's a hunt at best and then they still have issues. I guess that's why we have the tools we do. Just be wary of knotholes. Aside from that I did secure the 2x4's to the floor with several concrete anchors. I hadn't planned on that but most unfinished basement floors have less than level finishes so between that and not as true 2x4's (before I started using the jointer and planer) there was a slight rise and this secured them in place and drew them down. I did that to 3 of the four floor boards.
The door was on and closed but not hung yet, just placed in the closed position. I just posted another page of pictures showing the closet that can be seen here. There are no plans per se as it evolved as I started to lay it out. Looking back I could have made it a bit larger but the panels are screwed on so I can disassemble it if need be to access anything I need. I did think ahead and put in 3 sliding panels at the top for access to the motor and wiring if needed. I took a 2x4 and used dados to slot the board for the panels to fit in and slide. Just make sure to make the top dodo twice as deep as the lower so you can raise the board into the top slot and then drop it into the bottom while still holding the panel upright. I used fiberglass screen netting to hold the rockwool insulation to the panels and strips to hold them between the framing. It would be a lot easier to keep the insulation in place if the studs are 16" on the center but the strapping did well. I also cut the bottom of the front left panel about 12" from the floor for cleanout access, again the panel is screwed on. Above the closet I used 2 batts of the rockwool insulation in each ceiling joist because I had it left, one may have been just fine but rather than have it sitting around....
The last thing I need to do is shave just a tad off the door left side and mount it using brass 3" hinges (3) and add a few pieces of trim. I intend to adhere the corner trim to one board in each corner so it will allow the panel removal with the trim intact if needed while still covering the other corner panel. I may use an adhesive to do this. I haven't decided yet. I was in a rush to get it functional.
The URL again is http://www.astral-imaging.com/woodworking_shop5.htm
-Steve
This project started with the mounted CV1800 on my exterior basement wall and chalk lines on the unfinished basement floor. I was simply visualizing what I needed for a closet to encase this unit that would be compact enough to hold it and dampen the noise as well as functional if I needed to work on any aspect of the unit. The cleanout and filters are done by removing (taking the screws out) of the small 12" tall short panel on the front left corner and the filters can be fully accessed by taking the left side panel off, again removing the screws. Nothing is nailed as I had just gotten my Kreg Foreman Pocket-Hole Machine and was anxious to get familiar with it. This makes it possible to disassemble and move if ever necessary. I used slotted pine paneling just like I did in the control room (warm room) of my roll off roof observatory hence the web address astral-imaging,com. I used 2x6 for the top/bottom of the door using dados to insert the panel. I was going to use 2x4 for the door sides with dados and then rip in half to use but the panel proved a bit too curved to do this without putting a good deal of stress on the 2x so I got some 1x4's and sandwiched the panel which worked out much better and had less stress. I did dress the door 2x's using the jointer and planer. I can't tell you how frustrating it is trying to find true boards at the big box stores. even when they list and charge for "Premium" it's a hunt at best and then they still have issues. I guess that's why we have the tools we do. Just be wary of knotholes. Aside from that I did secure the 2x4's to the floor with several concrete anchors. I hadn't planned on that but most unfinished basement floors have less than level finishes so between that and not as true 2x4's (before I started using the jointer and planer) there was a slight rise and this secured them in place and drew them down. I did that to 3 of the four floor boards.
The door was on and closed but not hung yet, just placed in the closed position. I just posted another page of pictures showing the closet that can be seen here. There are no plans per se as it evolved as I started to lay it out. Looking back I could have made it a bit larger but the panels are screwed on so I can disassemble it if need be to access anything I need. I did think ahead and put in 3 sliding panels at the top for access to the motor and wiring if needed. I took a 2x4 and used dados to slot the board for the panels to fit in and slide. Just make sure to make the top dodo twice as deep as the lower so you can raise the board into the top slot and then drop it into the bottom while still holding the panel upright. I used fiberglass screen netting to hold the rockwool insulation to the panels and strips to hold them between the framing. It would be a lot easier to keep the insulation in place if the studs are 16" on the center but the strapping did well. I also cut the bottom of the front left panel about 12" from the floor for cleanout access, again the panel is screwed on. Above the closet I used 2 batts of the rockwool insulation in each ceiling joist because I had it left, one may have been just fine but rather than have it sitting around....
The last thing I need to do is shave just a tad off the door left side and mount it using brass 3" hinges (3) and add a few pieces of trim. I intend to adhere the corner trim to one board in each corner so it will allow the panel removal with the trim intact if needed while still covering the other corner panel. I may use an adhesive to do this. I haven't decided yet. I was in a rush to get it functional.
The URL again is http://www.astral-imaging.com/woodworking_shop5.htm
-Steve
al_voisine
New member
sreilly24590 - Thanks again for the great post! I was lost until I saw the link to the pics. With your help (and some others) It is starting to take shape in my mind. How did you deal with exhausting air out of the closet?
sreilly24590
New member
It's been a while and I've been busy trying to get projects completed. The sealing of the collector (trash can) went well and cured the sawdust cleanout issue. I've yet to install the remote bin level sensor but need to get that done. I was going to start that back a while ago and thought about how I was going to do this and use bag liners. Now I guess I'll just not use the liners. Problem solved. But the main reason for posting was to thank all for their assistance and solid advice. It certainly made this project easier than I had thought it would be.
Thanks again.
-Steve
Thanks again.
-Steve
sreilly24590,
I trust that those projects you have been working on have left the shop cleaner than before the Cv1800.
Your last post mentioned a bag inserted in the dust collection barrel which you have apparently abandoned. I can see how a bag that is carried up from the basement through the house when emptying the barrel could be a little easier and cleaner. I also know that an unrestrained bag, that is nothing to hold the bag in the barrel when the cyclone is on, can result in the bag being sucked up into the cyclone.
If you abandoned the idea because of the hassle associated with mechanical bag holders, then another option may be worth considering. This option requires running a length of Tygon tubing (clear flexible tubing available in the many home centers), perhaps ½” inside diameter, from the cyclone inlet to the lower side of the dust collection barrel may be worth considering. Some of the suction from the cyclone is transferred to the barrel. The suction is enough to keep a bag in place. This system allows a bag to be removed and re-installed as one would replace a trash bag in a household trash container.
My recollection is that Grizzly employs this bag-holding system on some of their dust collectors. I recently gained first-hand experience with this vacuum bag holding system. The Oneida Dust Cobra, their HEPA shop vac, features such a system. It does a good job of holding the dust barrel bag in place.
I trust that those projects you have been working on have left the shop cleaner than before the Cv1800.
Your last post mentioned a bag inserted in the dust collection barrel which you have apparently abandoned. I can see how a bag that is carried up from the basement through the house when emptying the barrel could be a little easier and cleaner. I also know that an unrestrained bag, that is nothing to hold the bag in the barrel when the cyclone is on, can result in the bag being sucked up into the cyclone.
If you abandoned the idea because of the hassle associated with mechanical bag holders, then another option may be worth considering. This option requires running a length of Tygon tubing (clear flexible tubing available in the many home centers), perhaps ½” inside diameter, from the cyclone inlet to the lower side of the dust collection barrel may be worth considering. Some of the suction from the cyclone is transferred to the barrel. The suction is enough to keep a bag in place. This system allows a bag to be removed and re-installed as one would replace a trash bag in a household trash container.
My recollection is that Grizzly employs this bag-holding system on some of their dust collectors. I recently gained first-hand experience with this vacuum bag holding system. The Oneida Dust Cobra, their HEPA shop vac, features such a system. It does a good job of holding the dust barrel bag in place.
sreilly24590
New member
Trust me when I say I use to plan on spending more time cleaning up after using the router table. With heavy cuts like the 3.5" raised panel cutter, you can't even see the shavings in the Clearview 6" to 2 - 4" blast gate although the can shows the results. I get a slight dusting on the table saw, the jointer needs a light sweeping and it doesn't have the best collection. And gee, you should see the SuperMax 19-38 drum sander at work. I'm so pleased it isn't funny. The bag liner isn't a problem as I have a walkout basement and the unit is within 5' of the French door. I even have a dolly that I use to move the can. I have to take it maybe 40' to get to the woods to empty the can. I'll have to take another look at the installation instructions.
Thanks for the post.
-Steve
Thanks for the post.
-Steve