Installing my CV1800

F

fullmetal

New member
Hello everyone,
I am currently installing my new CV1800, and I have a couple of questions.

I have my cyclone hung up and I'm currently wiring it up. I also bought the remote control and filters. When I complete the wiring, I'd like to perform a "smoke test". My first question is how much of the cyclone needs assembly prior to the first spin up of the motor? Should I block off any of the intake, output or bottom of the cyclone or wait until a certain stage of assembly?:confused: I don't want to run up too many amps. I have my garbage can, but I still need to construct the MDF lid. I don't have any 6" S+D yet, I plan on picking up some tomorrow. I tested the remote with the relay, supplying the 120VAC but not the 240VAC. I could hear it clicking on/off and I didn't let out the magic smoke, so far, so good.:) I had an old steel fuse box that I gutted and mounted the relay in. I'm glad I saved that old junk.

The second question is about my breaker. I have a 30A double pole breaker and I'm using 10/3 (with ground). I had it on hand and copper is expensive. I plan on capping the neutral at the cyclone end for the time being. Is a 30A breaker ok or should I drop it to 20A for protection of the motor?

I still need to hookup the wire to the panel and staple the wire along the run in my "attic" space. There is a bit more to do like caulking, but I'd like to spin up the blower as soon as it is wired to check for proper spin direction.

Lastly, for now, due to my DC placement, it would be nice if I could shorten the intake somewhat. Is there any disadvantage? I have my DC next to a window, and the way things are looking I will not be able to get my 6" line above the window. It isn't a huge issue, but I may be able to clear the window if I take a few inches off the intake.

Thanks in advance,
Dave Zeigler
 
Questions, Questions

Questions, Questions

Hi, Dave,

I had an electrician friend run the 220 circuit for me, including installation of a breaker. I don't mind playing with 110, but feel inexperienced and uneducated with 220. That sparky stuff usually evades me. So as I readily admit I'm clueless in that regard, reckoned the better part of valor would be to get someone qualified to do it.

He used a 30 amp, I just checked again. So I think you're OK in that regard. Plus, from what I've read, others have seen something over 20A, like 22 or 23, when running with little or no ductwork. Bottom line is I think I'd stick with the 30A you already have.

While my electrician friend was here, we did start the blower for very short durations, just to check the spin direction. We didn't get it up to full speed. At that time, I had just the blower housing up. No cyclone, no filters. However, if you want to go up to full speed, I don't think I'd recommend that bare an installation. It will, however, draw maximum amperage like that.

For your test, I think I'd seal the bottom of the cyclone body at minimum. You might also consider partially blocking the inlet. The more air the impeller has to move, the higher the current draw.

Others have run theirs sans filters and with little or no ducting, but with the bottom sealed. I think for curiosity as much as for any other reason, for one can, with a meter, determine the maximum amperage the unit will ever draw in that configuration.

The intake acts to let the airflow settle out a bit from the transition from round to rectangular prior to entering the cyclone body. But that said, I think if you kept your shortening within reason, say a couple or three inches shorter, shouldn't make THAT much difference. Maybe a slight increase in noise, and a slight reduction in both separation efficiency and airflow. Maybe.

Don't think I'd eliminate the entire rectangular piece, and simply attach the transition piece directly to what comes attached to the cyclone body, though.

It appears Matt & Ed manufacture the entire rectangular bit as one piece, then cut it prior to attaching the bit that goes into the cyclone body. Mine looks as though it was sawed, and the two pieces match up perfectly. Even when one inspects the discoloration pattern from the acetone used to adhere the sealing strap. So were I to cut off a portion, I'd ensure the removed piece was the bit closest to the transition end, not the cyclone body end.

Yes, there are advantages to being a packrat. I thought I was one but discovered my recently departed father in law outclassed me by several orders of magnitude. I'm not looking forward to cleaning up his stash.

Good you didn't let the smoke out. Those things need all their smoke to run properly.

Regards,

DWD
 
Thanks for the reply.

I have poked around here enough to know that the more air the blower can move, the more amps drawn. I think I'll wait until I get the MDF lid for my trash can done before I fire up the blower. I thought about a momentary on/off to check direction, so I'll see what mood strikes me later as I'm working on the installation. Frankly, I'm not worried - the directions are pretty straightforward.

I've done quite a bit of wiring, so I have no issues with this installation.

I guess I will stick with the stock inlet for now. From what I gather, folks often end up changing their ducting after the initial install. Who knows, I may end up moving the cyclone later so the issue with the window may be temporary.

As for being a packrat - well I'm working on it.:) My old fuseboxes are in a pile that is heading for the landfill. I just haven't gotten a full truckload together yet.:rolleyes:

I upgraded my home's service from 70A to 200A and replaced the fuseboxes with breaker panels. That was a year ago. In addition, I've been wiring my garage/shop I built. All this work just so I can make sawdust! It has taken a lot of time, but its all fun.

Well, big storms moving through now. I guess I'll wait until tomorrow to pick up that 6" S/D.

I guess I'll head out to the shop now and finish my wiring and caulking. I should have this thing up and sucking dust in a week or so. Fun stuff!

Dave
 
Hi Dave,

You can Start/test the motor for 15 - 20 secs without a problem but a small piece of cardboard taped to cyclone bottom would be better for testing. I run my cyclone with a 20 amp breaker but sometimes it kicks out on start-up. We recomment 30 amp breaker because of the draw on start-up. As far as your concerns with the pipe maybe you could put a short piece of pipe on the intake and connect some flex hose as to allow you to raise the pipe above your window. Also depending on how much you have to raise it the pipe doesn't have to be exactly in line with the angle of the cyclone....the connection may flex enough without the flex pipe in-between. I am just talking about 6-8 inches of flex pipe so as to not kill airflow and will also help to isolate vibrations/sound from transferring to pipe if that is a concern.

Hope this helps,

Matt
 
Matt said:
Hi Dave,

You can Start/test the motor for 15 - 20 secs without a problem but a small piece of cardboard taped to cyclone bottom would be better for testing. I run my cyclone with a 20 amp breaker but sometimes it kicks out on start-up. We recomment 30 amp breaker because of the draw on start-up. As far as your concerns with the pipe maybe you could put a short piece of pipe on the intake and connect some flex hose as to allow you to raise the pipe above your window. Also depending on how much you have to raise it the pipe doesn't have to be exactly in line with the angle of the cyclone....the connection may flex enough without the flex pipe in-between. I am just talking about 6-8 inches of flex pipe so as to not kill airflow and will also help to isolate vibrations/sound from transferring to pipe if that is a concern.

Hope this helps,

Matt
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Matt. 30A breaker it is. I forgot about the startup current... :eek: ... thanks for the reminder. I managed to finish the wiring so I plugged up the bottom of the cyclone and took it for a spin, limiting the time on to 20 seconds or so. Everything works fine. :D WooHoo!

I also finished the caulking last night and began work on the other parts, like an MDF trash can lid (done) and cleanout (in process). Everything is going together great.

I must say that my expectations for noise were high. I expected this to be much louder than it is. I may not close it into a closet after all.

I'll post progress reports, and perhaps a picture or two later.

Dave
 
Oh, one more thing...

I looked for flex hose at the home center. All they had was the cheesy plastic drier vent hose and a flexible aluminum. Is the flex aluminum acceptable or should I look for a source of the heavy plastic spiral wire stuff like used for the cyclone/trashcan lid junction?

Dave
 
I looked for flex hose at the home center. All they had was the cheesy plastic drier vent hose and a flexible aluminum. Is the flex aluminum acceptable or should I look for a source of the heavy plastic spiral wire stuff like used for the cyclone/trashcan lid junction?
Click to expand...

I Would recommend spending the extra money on the wynn environmental hose.....It's expensive but you will not have to replace it ever...... http://www.wynnenv.com/flexible_hose.htm the 25 mil hose on top.

Hope this helps and I am glad to hear the install is going well,

Matt
 
Update

Update

I've received my 6" hose from Wynn environmental and I picked up some 6" S&D with fittings. I managed to avoid my windows with the ducting. I have my mains installed with drops and blast gates. I still need to build some hoods.

The cyclone is completely assembled now. Woohoo!

I wanted to wrap this thread up. I'll start another thread later regarding the hoods I need to build.

Thanks for the help guys!
Dave Zeigler
 
Congrats

Congrats

Glad to hear it's up and running and look forward to hearing how the hood modifications go.

Matt
 
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