Questions: a closet in basement, and venting/coolingm otor

mreza123

New member
I'm ready to install my Clearvue in my basement shop. The height is 93.5" but can get in between joists. I want to build a closet to reduce noise level. My plan was to put sound proofing insulation inside the walls as well as the roof of the closet but given the height it appears I have to stick the motor out a bit in between the joist. I am thinking to build a closet about 32"x48" and as high as I could go. This closet will also be a stand to hold the cyclone, built out of 2x4 with OSB on the outside. My questions are:

- How to effectively enclose the whole thing (including the filters) and yet have the motor cooled down properly? I see some references in the threads to a baffle that directs air to the motor and then out to cool it down but couldn't find pictures/description of it.

- Where to place vents to let the air out and what size is considered good without affecting air flow too much?

- To reduce the sound coming from the vents (which don't have sound insulation) what's a good method others have used?

I have another problem which I have to sort out (the joist I wanted to place the motor in between has a heating duct run in!). So although I still have room between the motor and the duct, I suppose I better keep these two hot items separate, or is it going to be Ok?

thanks
 
Thanks. I just finished setting up my Clearvue including the closet.
First, built the frames then the OSB on top (the outside dimensions are 32"x48"). As the height of the cyclone is slightly larger than my ceiling in the basement had to locate the motor between the joists:

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I used 3" Roxul bats for sound proofing, then covered it all with a thick fabric so that the air coming out of the closet doesn't contain little pieces of the insulation.
I also made the exhaust on the top so that the air passes the motor before coming out from the top (to help cool down the motor too).
Lifting the motor and installing the impeller by myself was the most difficult job (the manual does say that it's a two man job). Finding a good size bin (not too tall and not too small) was difficult. So I built a bin myself. Also built (out of acrylic clear sheet) a dust pan with clean-out port at the bottom of filters):
 
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To get this run had to redo my wiring. The nice switch you see in the picture below as well as a small fuse in the box next to it are courtesy of Rod (Thanks Rod!!).
I've used a big relay which is activated using a simple 110v X10 transiver with pocket remotes:
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The closet works great in reducing the sound. When the door is closed it is not louder than my previous 1.5HP DC; but this is without ducting. I suppose ducting will increase the sound, but will see.

This is not done yet: what are left to do are:

- ducting

- Adding a light sensor which warns me when the bin is full to prevent from over-fill and making a mess at filters. I've got the part for this and shouldn't take long.
 
Noise Control

Noise Control

I'm building my dust collector closet now and was wondering if it is better to drywall the inside of the closet or not. I will be using 5/8ths drywall on the outside and 2 1/2 sound attenuation bats as an insulation in the walls. I was also thinking of drywalling the inside and then line the walls with carpet padding or that foam egg carton shaped bed /matress stuff you would top your matress with. Any thoughts from the forum is appreciated.
 
I'm building my dust collector closet now and was wondering if it is better to drywall the inside of the closet or not. I will be using 5/8ths drywall on the outside and 2 1/2 sound attenuation bats as an insulation in the walls. I was also thinking of drywalling the inside and then line the walls with carpet padding or that foam egg carton shaped bed /matress stuff you would top your matress with. Any thoughts from the forum is appreciated.
I say no, unless you are building a staggered stud wall. I just covered the inside of my closet with PVC lattice to allow the Roxul I used to do it's job, and it does.
 
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