Some ?'s

[Floorguy]

Hi all:

I am new to this forum and have not explored the threads so please forgive if I ask questions that may have been beaten more than a dead horse.

I am going to stop working in my garage with job-site tools and squatting in a friend's furniture shop, and build my first shop. After years of no dust control to minimal, I would like to start with a first rate system.

I am considering the PSI 3.5 hp. Tempest, but keep coming back to CV--pretty dust. I am a problem solver so set up is a non issue, cost is. I will be building ducting and adding stationary machines as the budget allows. I hope to be running a 3 hp. Grizzly TS, 15" planer, 6 to 8" jointer, 3 SCMS station, router table, scraping station w/sweep, down draft table and some floor sweeps by the end of the year. Most work will be TS, SCMSs, router and then planer as I do inlaid hardwood floors. Other wood working is a hobby that I would like to become an augmentation to my income.

I am a bit confused about the electrical box as an accessory. Does the CV1800 come with a switch or is this box necessary? The collection bin and clean out box are not issues. Are there any other costs I am missing? Spiral Manufacturing is in the area and their prices seem reasonable for the runs I need. I would like to put this machine and large compressor in an add-on unheated/uncooled area or garage closet next door--same building. I live in MN so temperatures can range from -30 to 105 F. Will this be a hardship on the motor? I will build the extra area or closet, heavily insulated with a passive vent, but I would like as much noise insulation as possible by keeping it off the shop floor; which will only be 340-450 SF; I have plenty of storage in other areas so the shop is for tools and acclimating what I need. The CV recycling the shop air should heat and cool the DC area after start up I assume. I have 100 amp service, but don't imagine more that two 220's running at the same time--in addition to the DC. With this set up, a passive vent, can I have a wood stove? What am I missing? Are there any other accessories I need to budget?

Thanks for any thoughts,

Walt

 

[bababrown]

Walt,
The CV-1800 does not come with a switch. You will need the equivalent of the electrical box which you can build yourself. To meet NEC requirements for a 5 HP motor (and I think a 3.5 HP motor also) you will need to start with a 30 amp, 230 volt breaker at your service box or sub-panel. Then you should run #8 copper wire (2 hot wires) with ground to the CV-1800. Within site of the CV-1800 you need a non-fused AC disconnect rated for at least 5 HP. These are cheap at Home Depot or Lowes. Then you need a contactor / relay rated at 5HP on 230 volts single phase. A Fasco H330B will meet the requirement and is available at www.emotorpro.com for $19 or so. You should mount the relay in a good size electrical box (metal or plastic); probably an 8" X 8" size. That should run $20 or so. Don't skimp on the box size. Run a separate, switched 120 volt line to the same box and use it to control the relay by way of the relay coil. The switch for that separate line will control the CV-1800 so put it where it is convenient. The separate line can be a 120 volt, 15 amp circuit with #14 wire. The relay coil takes an insignificant amount of current so you can tap off an existing 15 amp circuit. From the relay box you can connect to the motor with two #8 single wires placed in a flexible metallic conduit (like the old BX). If you use a plastic box run a bare copper ground wire to the motor. This will give you about the least expensive approach that will meet NEC requirements. You can add remote control and other features like a bin-full sensor; the remote control adds only a moderate amount.
As to the wood stove, there should not be a problem if you leave a good size opening between the CV-1800 closet and the shop. Don't vent the closet to the outside, rather vent it back into the shop so the filtered air is returned to the shop. You can build an inverted chimney so the return air is drawn from the top of the closet. That will cool the motor and help keep the noise out of the shop. Hope this helps.
bababrown

 

[McRabbet]

Walt,

The Electrical Box you can purchase from ClearVue does provide a near "turn-key" system for hooking up a CV1800, but the basic system is provided with a good 240 V motor relay (a Fasco H230B contactor which has a 120 V coil and can handle the 30 AMP circuit for the Leeson 5 HP motor). You need to provide a method of enclosing the relay (I have a 6 x 6 x 4" WP junction box) and a convenient method of providing a switched 120 volt line to the relay's coil. Most of us use a low-cost wireless remote power outlet (like the Lamson unit here from Amazon.com) and then run a section of power cord from this gizmo to the coil of the Fasco relay to provide a convenient power controller for the cyclone (being wireless, it will transmit through your shop walls). I also use a ready-made HVAC whip from my local Lowe's store to connect the output side of the Fasco relay to the junction box on the Leeson motor -- it comes with fittings and #10 THNN wire for less than $12 (I couldn't find the one with wire included online). A #10 home-run to a 30 Amp breaker, a few bushings and you're ready to connect your CV.

You need to have a convenient method of returning air to your shop from the cyclone closet -- many CV owners use a return that pick up air from near the top of the cyclone blower (to allow air from the filters to circulate past the motor) and channels it down through a stud cavity plenum to a wall grille in the shop near the floor level. I doubt you will have issues with the temperature, but I am not familiar with the temperature operating constraints on the Leeson motor, if any.

Hope this helps. (Edit: Looks like babbrown and I were answering at the same time. He's right about the disconnect -- but the Fasco relay does come with the CV 1800 so you don't need to buy one).

 

[Floorguy]

Thank you both for the replies. I really appreciate your in depth
knowledge. I am competent at wiring but no expert.

The GF is buying a house in the country with a large garage and out buildings. Instead of using part of the garage I decided to start closing up a 23' x 27' pole shed--well built, what's there. This is going to be a bit longer process than the garage. I hope to get it roughed in and buckled up before next winter's snows. I should have lots of questions in the mean time. First one: what do you think about assembling the unit in the temp. garage space and then moving it? The house needs some remodeling. This will be the first priority.

Thanks again,

Walt

 

[Jim O'Dell]

Shouldn't be a problem. You will need help getting the motor/blower unit up and down from the mount, but the body is very light. I'd do it in a heartbeat. Congrats on the CV1800 and the new shop! It took me about 5 years to get my shop rebuilt from a cheaply closed in car port to a manageable building. It is worth the journey! Jim.