Using ATSM 3034 (SDR35) Ducting

M

Mike Dorsam

New member
I've read a great deal about the thin-wall (2729) material; however, I have not been able to find a supplier in the Annapolis, MD area. Frankly, I know several professional plumbers and have dealt with some of the larger plumbing supply houses here - and they don't use the stuff.

Schedule 40, in 6", is both very heavy and expensive - and a special order via the big box and my trade friends.

The SDR35 is sandwiched between these two materials; though, I'm not sure that it is equivalent - just because something is thicker, does not mean that it's stronger than something else that happens to be thinner.

Has anyone used this material - I've seen some posts, but no follow-up to determine how it has withstood the test of time.

Thanks for your consideration.
Mike Dorsam
 
SDR-35 uses the same fittings as the 2729. They are the same outside diameter, but with the thicker walls, they have a smaller inside diameter. I had trouble finding it here also. I finally stopped in a big plumbing yard in the downtown area and got the same thing in the office...don't know what it is, don't carry it. I asked permission to look around their yard. Low and behold a stack of about 16 pieces of 6" 2729. I went back in and asked about it and they said show me. So I showed them the stack with the stencil of ASTM-2729 on the pipe. I got 2 pieces that day for 18.86 each. The next 3 pieces they sold me for a little over 10.00 each. They still said they didn't have the fittings for the pipe. But I couldn't get into their warehouse to prove them wrong!!! I suggest visiting some of the yards and looking for yourself if they will let you. Also ask for it as 6" thin wall drain and sewer pipe. Jim.
 
Many of us have used 6 inch SDR-35 pipe. Mine has been in place since 2008 and has proven itself. SDR-35 is much stronger than D-2729. SDR-35 usually is approved for sewer use whereas the thin wall D-2729 does not meet most sewer codes (the issue is soil pressure squashing the pipe). SDR-35 has the same outside diameter as D-2729 and the fittings are the same for both pipes. Either type pipe is suitable for a CV system. SDR-35 is available at many outlets but is pricey. D-2729 is harder to find. Try a water system supply house or a farm irrigation business. Hope this helps.
bababrown
 
SDR35 is a heavier sewer and drain (S&D) PVC pipe (it is one style within the D-3034 standard) and has the same outside diameter as the thinner walled D-2729 that many of us use with our ClearVue Cyclones, so fittings are interchangeable. The 6" version comes in a bell end and has a wall thickness of 0.180 and is light green in color (D2729 is white, bell end and has a 0.100" thick wall). My local Lowe's has a number of S&D 6" fittings including 22-1/2*, 45* elbows, straight couplings and 6 x 6 x 6 and 6 x 6 x 4 wyes; all white PVC. You will also find 90* elbows, but they are short radius and should not be used. Also avoid Tees, due to high static pressure loss. SDR35 is very strong and should work fine -- the down sides are it costs twice as much as D-2729 and has a smaller inside diameter with slightly more static pressure loss per foot.

All that said, you can use it safely. But if you can find D-2729, it will be cheaper. It is harder to find as you've already found. I found it through a plumbing distributor and other folks I know have found it from irrigation or landscape supply companies -- try John Deere Landscapes or Ferguson's in the Annapolis area.
 
Great Answers, and I do appreciate everyone's time and consideration.

Clearvue has recommended against the 3034 (SDR35), perhaps due to the smaller interior diameter. I will continue to look for the 2729 - Cresline, in Mechanicsburg, PA (somewhat of a driving-distance) is a manufacturer.

I have a registered plumber who can get the 3034 material at trade prices, not list, so I'll do a price comparison. For my money, the 2729 is the better bet; assuming I can get it.

Thanks, again.
Mike
 
Again, remember to ask for thin wall 6" drain pipe when asking about it. If you end up using the 3034 (SDR35) and the color bothers you, get some of the plastic spray primer and paint. It will all be white that way!! ;)) Jim.
 
I've order the 3034, and should have this in-the-shop tomorrow, Thursday. I'll post pricing at that time.

Thanks, again.
 
Material received this morning:

6" Conduit - 2729; $1.98/ft - Cresline is the manufacturer; SDR35 fittings - 45 degree Ys: $25/each. Pricing is 'delivered' and after-tax. Everything fits together perfectly. About 1/2 of the piping is complete; awaiting CV18.

Purchased through a registered plumber.

Mike
 
Mike,

Those are fairly decent prices -- I suspect you will need two additional fittings to allow for turns off the wyes and to connect sections of straight pipe. I'm not sure where you are located, but I can buy 45 degree elbows and straight couplings for 2729/SDR35 pipe at my local Lowe's for less than $8 each (and the wyes as well for cheaper that you paid by a few bucks). They also carry 6x6x4 wyes that you may want for some drops.

Check your home center.
 
If you've already purchased what you need, disregard this post. If you still need 45 wyes and 6-6-6 els, try McMaster-Carr online. I ordered twice from them, shipping was reasonable and their pricing was the best I could find at the time, though I have seen others post better pricing. Might try Ace hardware too. But like McRabbet, I got my 22.5 els and 6-6-4 wyes from Lowes. Jim.
 
Well, a follow-up question - and I feel ashamed to ask this: remember that the "Who's Buried in Grant's Tomb"? Well, He and his wife; so, nothing in life is straight-forward.

I purchased 25' of spiral wire flex hose from Wynn Environmental: it is heavy duty, to be sure. What I find is that it's not going to fit over the 2729, for close-to-equipment connections; it may not fit over the Clearvue intake; as I was going to use perhaps 2' to connect the inlet to the conduit.

The embarrassing question is "what am I going to use it for"?
Mike
 
Jim:

Thanks.

When I posted the purchase information, I did not include the End Cap, Connectors, and Elbow prices - not for any specific reason. So, I have these.

I purchased too many Connectors, and am short one 45 Y (which Lowes has); so, for now, I'm good to go. Awaiting the CV18, so that I can determine some conduit run lengths.

The next issue, which I've posted a question on, is the Flex Hose: it seems that I'll need an internal conduit couplings 6" OD, so that my flex hose can attach to it - but I'm guessing here.
Mike
 
Mike,
I have put the Wynn hose over SDR35 on several connections and it takes only 5 minutes or so. I use small levers and I lever it on like we used to lever a tire over the rim. Just hold it on with one lever and use the other lever an inch or so further on the circumference to roll it on. You only need to get it on the pipe about 1 inch. Once you get it started use your fingers to pull the first "roll" up the pipe a tad, then pull the second "roll", and so on until it's far enough up the pipe. I used dental tools for the levers.
bababrown
 
bababrown:

Thanks for the response - I was concerned that if I stretched the opening, the hose would brake, and not be returnable...

My guess is the temperature of my shop (about 40F) has stiffened the hose, as well.

I have to admit to being excited to get the CV18, and get it installed - my project list is growing.

Thanks, again.
Mike
 
You can use a little heat from a hair dryer to help it stretch a little too. But I will be honest here....I never could get the short piece of Wynn hose over my pipe section to the barrel. I replaced it with the hose I got from Woodworker's Supply. It isn't as heavy duty as the Wynn hose, but has worked fine for 7 years without an issue. And I had to use a little heat with it also. I also eased the edge of the pipe a little with a sandpaper disc on my RAS. Little tricks you just have to make up on the fly. :D Jim.
 
Jim:

Thanks for the comment: I guess the watch-word is to go slowly and coax the flex hose - I may need the 3rd-party connection to make it work. Either way, I can use what I've purchased; perhaps, with a little help from something else.

Clearvue has estimated a next Monday ship date. Between now and then, I have the dedicated 30amp electric line to run; the trash bin connector to fabricate; and, getting my old DC out of the way. Details, Details.

I can see my next questions will revolve around the stacked filters: connecting them to each other, and a shop-made cleanout.

I appreciate the time and considered responses from the Members...

Merry Christmas everyone.
Mike
 
Some have used a coupler and put the hose inside it like it was the pipe. Just a thought if you don't come up with something better.
Can't help with the filter questions as I vent directly outside. But there are many here that can help with those questions. I'll PM you a couple ideas I put together when I mounted mine. Don't buy anything until you get your CV1800. What is sent with the cyclones now differs a lot from what came with mine. In fact, when I got my setup, the motors were ordered separately from Electric Motor Warehouse. But if you find a problem or have a question, this information may help with how to tackle them. Merry Christmas and we look forward to pictures of your install!! Jim.
 
4" PVC pipe is squeezable using a heat gun and a couple of hose clamps. Place a few hose clamps on the end and tighten them while heating the pipe. Make sure to use good ventilation in case the PVC starts to burn. 6" PVC pipe might be difficult since it is much thicker than 4" pipe.

Another option is to make an inside coupling from a 4-5" length of 6" pipe. Remove a small sliver so it can be compressed to fit inside the other pipe. It may take a few attempts to determine the exact amount to remove so the cut pipe fits perfectly. Secure it with a few screws and maybe a line of caulk. The flex hose should easily fit over the new coupling.

Steve
 
A Quick Update.

I received the DC yesterday, Jan 2nd and have unboxed everything to ensure all was received, and received in good condition.

The shop, located around Annapolis, MD, is below freezing currently, and not likely to get above freezing for a few days - tonight's forecast is 9 degrees. So, I'll give it some time.

From a quick inspection, all parts are in good condition. I'm unsure about the electric box - I've wired several shops in my time; and for the DC have run a dedicated 30amp 240V line; however, I've never wired low voltage (for a remote, I guess): I'll photograph step-by-step, and post to the Forum.

I'm thinking of assembling all but the debris drum and Wynn filters, on the ground; then lifting the entire assembly onto the "L" bracket: this is about 90lbs, which I should be able to do.

To the Forum Members, thank you for your considered responses, personal experiences, and recommendations. I'll keep you posted.
Mike
 
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