vent hole

N

nortana

New member
I have my clearvue installed and am presently building the closet to hopefully quiet this thing down. I'm pondering Matts suggestion on R-13 insulation, but I see where some folks put the vent at the bottom of the closet. Is that for noise reduction or what????? I was planning to locate mine at the top so as to vacate the heat generated by the motor. What's the best location for that vent????
Thanks, gary
 
Vent

Vent

Gary,

There are two "styles". If your filters are in the same enclosure as the rest of the cyclone, you need to provide a way to return the air to the shop. The second is if you build your closet around the cyclone, blower and motor only, and the filters are in another location outside the closet, then all you need to supply is some way for heat from the blower and motor to escape.

In the first "style", the size of the opening, and some sort of baffle is probably best, is determined by the airflow through the system, you'll want over pi * 3^^2 for outlet area, though that'll still yield rather fast velocity through the outlet. So maybe pi * 4^^2 would be better. Location of the outlet shouldn't matter all that much in this style as there'll probably be plenty of air and heat exchange within the closet to keep the motor cool.

There are several examples of this in the gallery, I think. Perhaps the easiest to visualize from the photos is Jameel's.

For the second, probably two holes but smaller, an inlet and outlet. Seem to recall at least one person also incorporating a 4" or so computer type fan to ensure flow, either blowing directly on the motor from the inlet or sucking air out near the motor, can't recall which. Either should work just fine, and there is thermal overload protection on the motor. Were it me in this scenario, think I'd put the inlet low, and baffled so noise doesn't have a direct path out, and outlet, also baffled, above the motor. And were I using a fan, I'd probably put it blowing out.

Regards,
DWD
 
DWD.......thanks for the reply. My vent is approx. 6"x10", but I may just get another one and double up, just to make sure I don't have any back pressure in my closet. I think I will mount them up high just becuase that will make me fell better about any heat buildup will be blown out.
Thanks again,
gary
 
Vent

Vent

Putting the vent up top is an excellent idea because it will evacuate the hot air from the room! Actually Dad Just built an Internal baffle inside his room to force the air from the top of the room to the vent he had already cut at floor level and that solves the problem and also keeps the noise in the room also. Basically he built a 3 sided plywood box 7 1/2 feet tall and stood in front of the vent. Anyway it's a good idea to use the air already going through the system to keep the room cool which ever method you choose. Just remember the noise is up top!

Matt
 
vent hole baffle

vent hole baffle

Matt........Does Ed have any other sound absorber included in his baffle??? I seen someplace here where you used fiberglass insulation as a sound barrier. Have you checked what your db's are before and after installation???
I have found a place to purchase a sound absorber material that claims a 26 db reduction if applied correctly. I like that idea, but the price is quite high. $264.00 for a 5'x20' roll to be exact.......plus UPS.
gary
 
Gary, would that be a Dyna-mat type material? Thin, peel and stick membrane? If so, keep in mind that while it does work very well (high end car audio enthusiasts use it on the inside of doors, and other cavities to reduce vibration) in deadening the sound, it turns that energy into heat. Probably not enough to make any sort of difference, but then I've never measured it either. :rolleyes: I have open faced R-13 in my yet to be finished closet. I still need to build doors for it. You could also use some sort of multi angled foam to bounce sound waves around, thus deadening them. Think of what the inside of a recording studio looks like. I'm sure the stuff they use is expensive, but I wonder what the foam egg crate stuff sold for beds would do?? Jim.
 
noise absorbing material

noise absorbing material

Jim..........I have to be honest here. I can't remember the company name, but I have an email address and I have talked to them. They are located in michigan and to my understand, the product is made in or around minneapolis. Yes, it is about 1/8" thick, weighs about 1# per sq ft and comes is a roll and is not self stick. It has to be physically fastened to the walls etc. The gentleman I spoke with says I could cut it into strips and overlap each piece in the doorway, but not attached to the door. It would be, I guess mounted to the back of the doors frame. Then I wouldn't have to have an airtight door. I could open the door, push these strips to the side, do maintenence or empty to dust can. I hope I explained this to be understandable.
But I still don't know which way to go. I'd sure like to know the db's of a closet that uses fiberglass.
gary
 
Insulation

Insulation

Hi,

On the baffle he did not use anything but the closet was lined with sheetrock b4 and no insulation in the walls so he did add some insulation on top of the sheetrock that helped alot (our neighbor ordered it and said it was used behind the curtains in movie theaters). It is an insulation type of material. I will find out more infomation about results and material costs and post back tomorrow.

Matt
 
Hi,

I think the material is called Roxul Flexibatt and it came in 24 x 36 in rectangles about 2 in thick. He had a 12 db reduction in noise level to 64. I would guess that an insulation company would carry the stuff.

In our shop we used pick insulation and window screen and have a reading of 68. I am planning to order some roxul and see if i can further reduce that.

Matt
 
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I can hear again

I can hear again

My closet is all but complete.................and am I thrilled. I think it's a very basic constructed closet in that it is 2x4x10' (ceiling hieght), lined with paperbacked fiberglass insulation (paperfacing out) and shethed with 1/2" OSB. The sound deadening properties are awsume. At least compared to before. This closet is really just big enough to enclose the cyclone and filters, with double doors so I can get at the dust barrel and or maintain whatever.
A freind is going to bring over his db meter, but I am sure I have dropped the noise level down below 80..........but that's just a guess. I can even carry on a conversation with another person in my shop while the cyclone is running.
Oh ya............I am going to install 1 more vent for a total of 2 vents. I don't think I have enough return air capacity with just 1 vent.
thanks,
gary
 
dbs better than expected

dbs better than expected

I finally got together with my guy and the db meter. At about 10' away, the meter registered 72/73, at 1' it was 75/76 and most anywhere in the shop the noise level was 71/72 db's. I am totally happy. This down from the original +/- 94 db's
The next impovement is to get a bin sensor.
Thanks all,
gary
 
Gary, you might want to check out a material called UltraTouch, mfd by Bonded Logic (www.bondedlogic.com, check out their distributor link). This recycled cotton insulation has great sound insulation properties, far better than fiberglass. I got some from a local distributor- a 120s.f. bundle of 3.5 in. x 24 in. cost about $85.

I'm installing it now on my enclosure and will report back on the db reduction. However, you might check out a post in this forum by Tracer7, who I got the idea from.

Scott
 
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