6" Flex over 6" S&D

C

cooterMN

New member
Has anybody got any tips, tricks or advice how to more easily stretch 6" flex pipe (JET brand) over 6" S&D pipe?

It seems I can always get it started, but once I get so far as 2 or 3 of the reinforcement wires in the flex, I'm stuck and can go no further.

Thanks.
 
I was about to post the same question. I plan to do an Internet search on that to see if I find anything useful. If I find anything, I'll post it here. I'm also hoping others will post answers here. I also have 6" S&D pipe and 6" flex, but its not Jet-branded. It's just the 6" PVC flex hose that Wynn Environmental sells.

We can't be the first two people to tackle this problem.

Matt
 
It's a pain, but it can be done. If you use a heat gun, propane torch or a hair dryer and heat up the plastic hose for about the last two inches, you can stretch the plastic over the pipe. The problem it that the hose is made for 6" pipe and S&D pipe is about 6 1/4" OD.

Ed
 
Check out Bill Pentz. I slit the pipe like he did, works fine.
 
I like Ed's suggestion. I think it would make for a tight fit. One where the hose clamp is there just for insurance, not because it is absolutely necessary.

I did run across another option in my Web searches. That option is to use a piece of metal HVAC duct. Supposedly, it slips inside the S&D pipe and can be caulked in place, and the flex hose fits around the HVAC duct and then secured with a hose clamp. Depending on how well the HVAC fits into the PVC S&D pipe, this might be an easier method than the heat-and-stretch method, but it feels kind of kludgy to me. I think I might try both and see which one is better.

I might also take a look at the pipe-slitting technique too. I don't remember seeing that on Bill Pentz's Web site, but it could be that I just missed it or I wasn't thinking 6" flex at the time, so I skimmed over it.

Matt Bell
 
"It seems I can always get it started, but once I get so far as 2 or 3 of the reinforcement wires in the flex"

I'd try lubricating with Vaseline, and or twist the pipe or hose in the direction that would unwind the helix.
 
My first attempt got the flex onto the pipe with the wire around the pipe about 1-1/2 times. I was shooting for twice around. The flex certainly looks tight the way it is. I did not try rotating the hose. I'm going to give the heat and stretch technique one more try. If it isn't easier or more successful than the first time, I'll probably try one of the other two methods. I bought a cheap piece of metal 6" HVAC duct so I could try it. I'll report back.

I used a heat gun, but I'm not sure I got the flex hose hot enough.

Matt
 
Ok, it's only taking me a year, but the clearvue is finally getting connected up to all the tools. I'm definitely being tested with my 6" and 4" flex going over the S&D pipe. I got my flex from Grizzly. I tried one with the slits like Bill said on a leftover piece of 4", but I didn't think 6 cuts was enough. I felt like I had to make 12 or so slits before if went on, it seemed a little ridiculous. Does the heat and stretch method work for anybody?

Thanks
Nick
 
It worked for us. We got it on far enough that we were comfortable that the hose clamp was well onto the pipe. Yes, it was frustrating, and took patience. Plan on both. I found that pulling on the heated flex hose helped as opposed to only pushing it on, but it took both. Having smaller fingers to get underneath it enough to grab and pull helped too. But now they are in place, we have had no problems with slippage at all.
 
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I used dish soap. I didn't see the need to have more than 2 or 3 loops on the pipe. That was enough to get the hose clamp on and it seems tight.

Anthony
 
That's a great idea! I have tried wax and wd-40 neither of which did well.

Thanks for the tip,

Matt
 
I also used the hair dryer trick, and it worked well for me, except for the piece of Wynn Environmental hose that came on the cyclone!!:D I got so frustrated with it that I took it off and replaced it. I'm sure the hose I bought from Woodworkers Supply isn't as heavy duty as the Wynn hose is, but it works very well in both 4" and 6". I made some bridge clamps at first, but the last few 4" I haven't clamped at all, and they don't go anywhere, and the last one is on my overhead guard. I don't try to pull by grabbing inside the hose except of the very edge to get it started. I just "clamp" my finger nails on the edge of the wire, and pull it down as I go around the hose. Tough on nails, and you want them pretty short to do this, or you'll bend a nail back. Don't ask......:p Jim.
 
I did another one tonight and the other tip I would add would be to use a razor knife and trim the hose close to the metal before starting. One of the tricky things is if the pvc is too long it folds under and makes it harder to slide the hose onto the pipe.

Anthony
 
fitting fleh hose onto S&D pipes

fitting fleh hose onto S&D pipes

I finally used a new razor blade and trimmed off the plastic just above the internal wire in the hose. Then cut the exposed wire away. Did this enough to leave about 2 i/2 to 3 inches of wireless hose.
Then used a heat gun to soften the hose which easily slipped over the S&D.
I expect that some leak problems are caused by using straight clamps which have to leave the smooth part of the hose to climb over the extruded portion where the wire is /was.
I highly recommend the offset clamps sold by Wynn people. They provide continuous pressure on the hose everywhere, but cost about 3X more.
 
fitting flex hose onto S&D pipes

fitting flex hose onto S&D pipes

I finally used a new razor blade and trimmed off the plastic just above the internal wire in the hose. Then cut the exposed wire away. Did this enough to leave about 2 i/2 to 3 inches of wireless hose.
Then used a heat gun to soften the hose which easily slipped over the S&D.
I expect that some leak problems are caused by using straight clamps which have to leave the smooth part of the hose to climb over the extruded portion where the wire is /was.
I highly recommend the offset clamps sold by Wynn people. They provide continuous pressure on the hose everywhere, but cost about 3X more.
 
Yeah, I wanted the bridge clamps too. Couldn't get my Scottish blood (from my Mom's side :D ) to fork over the extra bucks, so I made my own. They seem to work great. But lately, I've not been using clamps at all...the tight fit of the flex seems to work just fine. Jim.
 
Jim

Jim

I haven't ordered my DC yet but have been following some of the threads and looking at installation pictures. I have also read the material on Bill Pentz's site. Based on some of Bills comments on bending S&D pipe with a heat blanket, or placing the pipe in boiling water or hot oil, I was wondering if anyone has tried to necking down the ends of the 6" pipe after heating. This might be done with an adjustable hose clamp, or maybe a couple of pieces of wood with each having half of a 6" hole The wood pieces could be clamped around thepipe immediately after heating. If it can be done like this (especially if boiling water would provide sufficient heat), slipping on the flex hose would be dramatically simpilfied. These are just thoughts, but I wonder if anyone has tried something along these lines.
 
I have had good luck getting the 6" 25mil flex hose from Wynn to fit over 6' SD. It takes coaxing, but it was easy enough I could get it to fit and then hit it with a heat gun. After it cooled it was easier to slide over the pipe. I used this technique when putting it on pipe in a awkward location.
 
I did something similar to what a couple of others here have done; I removed the wire from the last couple of inches I want to stretch over the pipe. I cut a section of the wire with the tip of my wire cutters and pulled it out of the flex hose with some pliers. I then held the end of the flex hose without the wire over my kerosene heater and when it was very warm, it was easier to stretch without the wire in it. It then slips over the end of the pipe and I put some duct tape and a clamp on it. The duct tape covers the holes where I clipped the wire.
 
Since I started this post I guess I would chime back in with what worked for me. It sounds as if everyone that has replied has experienced similar problems, and has come up with some similar solutions.

I ordered my hose from Wynn, I'm not certain which thickness, but it's pretty stought.

What I did is cut the section of hose that I needed to length, then heated the last 6" or so with my heat gun. I sprayed the end of the pipe with WD-40, then wiggled it on. I had to work it around the pipe as it followed the wire coils, and it was more a pulling action from outside the pipe, and a pushing action from inside (I stuck my hand up in side to press outward on the hose as I pushed it forward with my fingers). Once I got the process down, it went rather quickly. After the hose was in position I would run my heat gun around the outside to evaporate the WD-40, then I would clamp it. I'm not certain a person would need clamps as tight as these things fit!
 
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